turbof22a

here is me asking what you were working with. is that not clear? i was trying to help and your started to be a jerk off and made everyone realize that you are not going to make anything. you are some ricer loser that just talks about what they "are" going to do to thier car. it happens all the time

turbof22a

why is your join date sep 2009? every one says that but i know for a fact hotrex,jd,bdvt, and all the other ogs would tear you a new -------. and funny thing is i was here years ago too the only thing ruining it now is how all the new people (i.e. YOU) ask stupid ------- questions and then gets pisssed when people try to help them.

ZMX

QFT

AaronZ34

------- wrong, through and through. This test shows a gain of 50-70whp on a 250whp motor. That is ------- astonishing, to have a 20-30% power gain with just a header, and only lose 250-300rpm of spool time (And that's without the wrapped header, I'd venture it'd spool faster than the log if it was wrapped).

http://www.full-race.com/articles/Bs...st_writeup.pdf

It's not the manifold's fault it's prone to cracking, it's the builder's/designer's. A true header can be just as dependable. Mine has been going strong for 10,000 miles, and it has much more stress on it than the Honda manifolds do. They are just poorly designed.

It is a stupid question. First of all, you ask the people here. Not that the people here aren't the brightest bulbs in the box, but most homebrew manifolds here are half-assed, and focus more on just getting the exhaust to the turbine than doing so in the most efficient manner. Secondly, you ask someone. So if I tell you 41" is the best primary length, are you going to build it? I sure as ---- hope not. Run the calculations yourself, and figure it out, I did. Lastly, you asked a question that requires a lot of very specific details. You didn't provide a single ------- one.

Now, to contradict most of what I just said. Headers are pretty easy for turbo cars, as test after test has shown that most like a primary length between 16-24". Between this range, it's motor specific, but every motor tested by Bell in his book "Forced Induction Performance Tuning" liked a header in that range. So his advice was to build them at 16", and re-dyno by adding an inch at a time to find out what your motor likes best. He further said that the differences between a 16" header and a 24" header were largely negligible, unless you are in a restricted class, where every 2 tenths of a horsepower count. So since most of us don't have the time, resources, money, or engine bay space to add and test 8 different header configurations, he said just shoot somewhere in that range, and it will be good enough. I personally went right in the middle, and used 20s.

raysekturbo

I found a top mount thats a/c compatiable but i search around and a ram horn design is the best bet for what car an motor i am building . but if anyone is interested the guy said seven hundred bucks.my length question refered to i didn't want to defeat the purpose of a top mount by making it to short but thanks for the info guys .

mr dale

wow, you're an idiot.

did you ever mention what car you are planning on turboing?
if you are indeed trying to go 2.0 b series you better sleeve it,

but you're not, in fact you don't know ---- about turbos.
and 500-600whp in any fwd is just way too ------- much, there aren't many rear drive cars that have 500+whp

turbof22a

---- off your an idiot feel free to migrate to honda-tech you ------- douche bag ******

turbof22a

no hes not an idiot he knows way more than every one here he is so cool and he is going to gangster as ---- driving around in his 600000hp d/d even though he probably doesnt know the first thing on how an engine works let alone how forced induction works