Good info JD, as always.. I will look into a proper alignment.

How do you actually get this done? go to a normal tire place and tell them I want an alignment setup for straight line minimal lift in the front?

 

ya, its been aligned after being lowered, but not accounting for lift when launching. it has a little negative camber when resting, but less than a degree IIRC. ill post pics a bit later when i feel like going out in the garage and taking some :P

 

CRX or ED chassis Civic on 24.5" slicks the fender gap should be at ~0.5" when resting, and camber around -1.5 degrees, maybe more. The car I'm thinking of has a camber kit and still needed the UCAs modified for more camber, not everything is going to be the same between all cars because - as you know - there's 1,001 different suspension combos out there. So, your mileage may vary and your CRX is going to be a little different but if you have wheelspin on the street at the common ~325-350 whp D16's make on pump gas there's something off somewhere.

 

You will more than likely need camber kits for the front and you can use washers in the rear. Hondas dont have stock camber adjustments. Try to go to a good gemini. THey do 12k 12 month alignments so you can have it done as many times as needed in that time

 

ya with my 24.5" slicks, i had to raise the coilovers a bit and i could barely fit a finger in there, so i think the height is fine. as for the 1.5* negative camber, im less than that. if i remember correctly, it was between .5-.7*

maybe ill look into some adjustable upper joints to make more negative camber. but as for suspension im just running some Tokico HPs and GC coilovers, nothing special

 

I always do 1/2 degree negative camber, 1/8 toe in, and add a bunch of caster,

but it doesn't matter how good the alignment, suspension, or tires are if you have a worn-out bushings and bad joints everywhere. One of the best investments you can do is spend a few hundred bucks on new ball joints, tie rods, and energy suspension bushings.

key is realizing that you are going to spin with any kinda power but that there is a difference between spinning/going nowhere and actually having forward momentum while spinning.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CIVIC...Q5fAccessories

 

Ah NO, CDM = fail. Why are you going to put cdm parts in really important places . If you want good/ cheap parts spend a bit more and get it from rockauto.com

 

I have friends who installed some rockauto bushings and joints, all on normal beater vehicles. One out of three kits has a ball joint that dies in under 1000 miles, the rest seem to do okay. I doubt it'd last like OEM, but on a beater it might work for a bit if you had to...

 

put some stick em on your wheels before you take off