IC piping question
03-09-2006, 01:23 AM
#11
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,631
Re: IC piping question
Originally Posted by ju-on
I seriouslly think that for most of our applications, the difference would be so negligable that opting for aluminum based solely on the idea that it will keep it cooler because the metal changes temps quicker is stupid. Heck, I know when I open up my hood it's like a heater sometimes because the exhaust mani gets so hot. If that's the case, then I'd think the aluminum would heat up unless it's in some direct path of moving air.
Also, Aluminzed piping, isn't that coating only on the outside of the pipe? So for the one who said they used Aluminzed, and mild steel sucks because the inside will rust, I'd think you'rs would rust just as much as mine. BTW, my uncoated mild steel piping still has no rust.
Also, Aluminzed piping, isn't that coating only on the outside of the pipe? So for the one who said they used Aluminzed, and mild steel sucks because the inside will rust, I'd think you'rs would rust just as much as mine. BTW, my uncoated mild steel piping still has no rust.
even when my hot side pipe is warm (it runs right over my mani with only a few inches clearance before going down the side of the radiator), the last 1/2 of my IC and my cold side pipe are actually cold to the touch... Indicating tome that I did something RIGHT.
Oh ya, you can tig aluminum too...so dont let having to weld hold ya back
03-09-2006, 06:55 AM
#12
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 545
Re: IC piping question
Someone correct me if I'm wrong please, but this is just my thoughts on it.
Aluminum has good heat dissipating characteristics, and your piping is cold to the touch when you touch it. How I understand this, is that aluminum is not a real good insulator, it changes temp quickly to conform to it's environment. You have hot air going through a pipe, so the aluminum warms up as well and lets that heat out. Now say your Upper pipe going to your TB is aluminum, and you have fairly hot under hood temps(like my car does). The air went through the intercooler, and so the air in that pipe cooler then the temperature under your hood. Now, wouldn't that do the exact opposite? Wouldn't the bad insulating aluminum allow some of that heat back in?
Again I still think this difference is going to be so negligable on cars at our level that it's not even worth arguing. That's why I say choosing aluminum because it's going to make the air cooler is not why you should choose it. It is nice because it's light and will not rust. But I personally can't weld aluminum, nor do I have personal access to a welder that can weld aluminum. I chose mild steel. The exterior will be coated to prevent rust, I welded it all up at home with a MIG, and it was cheap and easy to deal with. My BOV flange was mild steel, my tb flange was mild steel, so they all welded on nicely since they were all the same material. My previous car also had Mild Steel piping on it with a shitty spray paint coating. I still had no issues with it rusting on the outside or the inside.
Just my opinion on it. Not saying I'm right and your wrong. To each his own
Aluminum has good heat dissipating characteristics, and your piping is cold to the touch when you touch it. How I understand this, is that aluminum is not a real good insulator, it changes temp quickly to conform to it's environment. You have hot air going through a pipe, so the aluminum warms up as well and lets that heat out. Now say your Upper pipe going to your TB is aluminum, and you have fairly hot under hood temps(like my car does). The air went through the intercooler, and so the air in that pipe cooler then the temperature under your hood. Now, wouldn't that do the exact opposite? Wouldn't the bad insulating aluminum allow some of that heat back in?
Again I still think this difference is going to be so negligable on cars at our level that it's not even worth arguing. That's why I say choosing aluminum because it's going to make the air cooler is not why you should choose it. It is nice because it's light and will not rust. But I personally can't weld aluminum, nor do I have personal access to a welder that can weld aluminum. I chose mild steel. The exterior will be coated to prevent rust, I welded it all up at home with a MIG, and it was cheap and easy to deal with. My BOV flange was mild steel, my tb flange was mild steel, so they all welded on nicely since they were all the same material. My previous car also had Mild Steel piping on it with a shitty spray paint coating. I still had no issues with it rusting on the outside or the inside.
Just my opinion on it. Not saying I'm right and your wrong. To each his own
03-09-2006, 10:55 AM
#13
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 90
Re: IC piping question
In most stock turbocharged cars I've seen, usually everything from the air filter to the engine is made of either ABS plastic, EPDM rubber, or aluminum.
If used anywhere in the intake stream, mild steel will eventually flake off and work its way through the IC and into the engine.... Yummy!
Aluminized steel is marginally better, but is only rust resistant, not rust proof. There's only an aluminum coating a couple microns thick...
Aluminum is fine for the lower charge air pipes, but if you route aluminum pipes over the engine into the throttle body, you'll absorb engine bay heat into the system. You'll negate much of the benefits of intercooling...
ABS and EPDM have to be custom molded, so those often won't work. The stock ones from Saab, Volvo, etc. are also 60mm (2 3/8 inch), which won't allow connection with 2.5 inch tubing.
Mandrel bent stainless is also a good choice because it doesn't rust and transmits heat less than aluminum. It's expensive, though. Silicone tubing is easy to get, but you need to make sure that you use at least three-ply silicone that can hold pressure.
In my system, I use a combo of stainless and silicone from truck radiator hose. You can get 3" lengths on Ebay for real cheap and use those to cut connectors. It's not glossy like the expensive crap, but it holds pressure better. (200 psi)
If used anywhere in the intake stream, mild steel will eventually flake off and work its way through the IC and into the engine.... Yummy!
Aluminized steel is marginally better, but is only rust resistant, not rust proof. There's only an aluminum coating a couple microns thick...
Aluminum is fine for the lower charge air pipes, but if you route aluminum pipes over the engine into the throttle body, you'll absorb engine bay heat into the system. You'll negate much of the benefits of intercooling...
ABS and EPDM have to be custom molded, so those often won't work. The stock ones from Saab, Volvo, etc. are also 60mm (2 3/8 inch), which won't allow connection with 2.5 inch tubing.
Mandrel bent stainless is also a good choice because it doesn't rust and transmits heat less than aluminum. It's expensive, though. Silicone tubing is easy to get, but you need to make sure that you use at least three-ply silicone that can hold pressure.
In my system, I use a combo of stainless and silicone from truck radiator hose. You can get 3" lengths on Ebay for real cheap and use those to cut connectors. It's not glossy like the expensive crap, but it holds pressure better. (200 psi)
Ebay linky?
03-09-2006, 11:17 AM
#15
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 90
Re: IC piping question
No direct link....sorry!
For a couple of weeks, I just used a series of Ebay searches:
silicone hose
radiator hose
truck radiator hose
Flexfab (which is the manufacturer)
Took a while, but I snagged two big pieces for about $30 each.
For a couple of weeks, I just used a series of Ebay searches:
silicone hose
radiator hose
truck radiator hose
Flexfab (which is the manufacturer)
Took a while, but I snagged two big pieces for about $30 each.
03-13-2006, 09:21 PM
#18
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 90
Re: IC piping question
Originally Posted by ichbinsobose
Woohoo. Found 3 feet of 2.25" flexfab for 11$ + shipping on the bay. Took a while, the seller misspelled every word. :1
Shhhhhh....Don't tell anyone. It's our secret.
Let the sad clowns pay $3 per coupler for the shiny ----....
Mwwwwwaaaaahhhhhhh.....
03-14-2006, 12:53 AM
#20
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 90
Re: IC piping question
Originally Posted by nissannnnn
daaaaaaang man that red saab is clean haha..my mom has a turbo saab and it goes man..just stock but its still fun to drive..
It's coming out this week and a 2.3L is going in there, with a GT3071R turbo....That's an easy 400 whp/450 wtq....
Best thing is that it will look absolutely stock!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
