RENR

NO!! thats just going to increase your boost levels!!!

on the 99's it should be on your throttle body. you would need to remove the map sensor, plug up the hole on the throttle body and use a T fitting to run a vaccum line to the nipple on the map sensor. then put a check valve on that vacuum line that goes to the map sensor.

i dont understand how that prevented u from getting a cel. can u take pics of your vaccum lines?

robs99si

The fuel pressure regulator goes connected to the intake manifold & I have a 5 way T where one end goes connected to the intake manifold and the other to the fpr with the 2
check valves hooked up on top and the BOV vacume line hooked upto the thid barb in the 5 way T. No CEL. And I just read on a MBC ad on ebay that a bleeder hole in my MBC
will bleed any excess air in it and let the waste gate close faster so the boost won't fluctuate.

RENR

mang! i dont know what to say. you only want to fool the map sensor not everything else which it seems is what your doing. take some pics ........

projekteg

this thread is like whoa! first of all, how is putting check valves in line to your bov going to affect your map or your boost levels, maybe if it was in line to your wastegate, second i also wouldn't be running more than one check valve with the afc b/c now it's seeing less boost therefore giving less fuel, at least get it re-dynoed by the alleged 'expert' that told you it was fine to boost 14 psi, and last but not least, if your getting boost spikes from 11-14 and back to 11, it may be time for a new wastegate

robs99si

it's fluctuating cause I have a manual boost controler that doesn't have a bleeder hole below where the wastegate
connects to it. Therefore keeping air inside the mbc and wastgate not letting it close all the way after it opens @ 14psi. that's why the psi drops to 10-11 psi. I'm gonna drill a 1/32" bleeder hole tommorow and that should fix it.
It only goes to 14 psi for 5 seconds then to 10-11. After I drill the bleeder hole I'm gonna set the boost at 10 psi.

projekteg

i don't know if that's your problem, i don't have a bleeder hole in my home made boost controller and i don't have that problem, maybe like a 1 psi creep right before redline, but that's about it. are you running an internal wastegate? they're not the most reliable, if you are, i would look in to an external if you're running high boost like that, but hey, at least it's dropping not jumping 3-4 psi

robs99si

Is there anyone that knows why my boost goes from 14psi to 10-11? mbc w/6.5 psi internal w/g.

projekteg

that's more than likely your problem, internal wg's aren't that accurate in high boost applications, invest in an external

JD

Actually its because of your MBC. If you get an electronic boost controller it wouldnt do this. I have an article from sport compact car where they dynoed and tested about 10 boost controllers (including a MBC) and the good electronic controllers didnt show any boost spikes at all. The ones that finished first and second were the apexi unti and then the greddy unit (not the cheap one the one with digital display). I'll see if I can find the article online.

JD

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te..._boostcontrol/
heres the article. In the magazine they have pictures and graphs but you get the idea.