Ludique

Well... OK if it failed for you, it can fail for me.

Thanks for the wake up call. I'll go with the pierced plug alternative.

HiProfile

---- for HMT, you guys sure like making restrictors the hard way :1 This assumes you run regular AN (JIC -37*) fittings on your lines.


If you have a welder and a steel NPT-AN fitting:

Weld up the NPT base and drill a .060" or smaller hole.


If you have a small propane torch (you should at least know someone with one ), a brass or steel NPT-AN fitting, and solder/flux:

Remove any plating inside the steel, or clean the brass inside a bit. Place the fitting AN side down on some sort of metal (concrete may chip/explode from too much direct heat), I used 16ga steel over asphault. Add flux inside, heat till its really hot, let solder melt inside of it. It won't leak out the bottom, don't worry. Preferably fill it up past any internal ridge, or at least 1/8" high. Let it air cool, then drill hole. Install before the oil line.


I did the latter to the steel NPT-AN adapter that goes from my oil distribution manifold to the -4an line, and the turbo never smoked - it wasn't new either. The key is to make the solder chunk cone-shaped, or have any indentation where it goes so it will never, ever pop out. Only time I would expect it to slide out is if you didn't use flux and/or the steel fitting was severly rusty inside or the plating wasn't removed (and chiped off later). BTW any type will do, 99.99% of solder don't melt below 377F, oil temp of 300F is dangerous and should never occur.

In other words solder owns you all. :P No extra parts, no cutting, no ---- that will break off in pieces and block a hole 100%. Worst case, this thing would stick in the line or wash through the turbo, still presenting that hole for oil to move through while stuck.

samson

Shouldn't both ends be flared still yet so that they won't leak? I mean they ARE flare fittings and designed or that sort of thing.


My turbo isn't smoking, but there is oil around the two housings so I'm assuming it IS pushing through so I'm looking for the fix. Problem is, I really don't know about the whole Male Female thing without flares.


JP

BLAAST

How the hell do you drill the set screw
I was kind of forced to stop doing that because the steel set screws were too hard to drill...
unless it's a brass or alu set screw?

jeffescortlx

Step 1: Pinch hard line untill you've reached desired pressure.
Step 2: ...
Step 3: Profit.

WTF

im a tard and i dont understand this one, got a better picture?

any why the hell doesnt someone just sell a part like this? who wants to mess with ------ *****

WTF

went to the store and this is what i came up with, gona drill that plug 1/16 . total cost about $3 + $1.20 for 2 drill bits

the white package is what the plug came in, found it at the autp parts store. other 2 pieces from the plumbing section of the local menards (home depot type place)




original fitting is the dark pieces in the picture. still trying to deside if i should get a kit or just a block fitting and use brake lines, looks like the original line was a hardline flare fitting type deal. 1/16" sure seems small

samson

See, my Dad was telling me not to go that route because the flares are there for a reason and that flare is designed to have a nice seal. That way oil will kind of 'lay' around alot in those spaces and may not seal too well.


JP

ifly87

I've been running the set screw method for a long time now and it works great, all you need is a godamn set screw and a drill bit, it doesnt get any easier than that. I put some loctite on the threads so they dont try and work themselves loose.

WTF

theres not alot of thread on each end with that allen cap in the middle, just enough so fittings can screw in nice and secure, but there gona bottom out against each other so i dont think oil is gona lay around in there