Zeusfire69

If you haven't tried gapping down your stock plugs to 28 or so, that may help wothout having to buy anything...

Cyberdx16

dont buy the pregapped, they are oversize i believe they are gapped at .044... get the ones that dont end in 11 i believe and gap them to .03

Tom-Guy

It's hard to find non-race plugs, that work well for Honduhs, that don't end in -11 (aka .044" gap).

The R5672A-x and R5671A-x series come at .028-.030", and while the R5671A-11 ends in -11, it's the plug temp and not anything to do with gap. Welcome to NGK changing their naming convention for their race plugs, wheee!!11

Bone1

the R5671's are not extended nose plugs, less likely for the ground strap to glow and ---- ---- up.

Thankfully any decent V8 speed shop stocks them in 7-11 heat ranges

I'd post pics, but recent HD failure = ---- ME!

trex661

which plugs would i need if ill be at 10 psi on a d16a6 and what should i gap them to.

mielko

also bkr7e

Tom-Guy

Eh, I disagree on the particulars of that.

The R5672's are pretty recessed compared to stockers, and the R5671/2 series of plugs keeps a fat ground strap design unlike other plugs, which does a good job eliminating heat. Most of the NA guys I know running the 15:1 CR NA race engines need the R5671's to keep from smacking ground strap against piston dome. The turbos cars I like to run the R5672's because it starts the burn off closer to the center of the chamber, so burn is not as shrouded by both fat ground strap and the head.

The 500 whp pump gas wonder ran R5672A-10's, heat mark centered on the ground strap, so no glowing taking place there. Same power on 110-118 it'd have been running 8's most likely, but through plug selection it was possible to remove an avenue of detonation.

Bone1

If only newbs could read plugs

Tom-Guy

If only I was as good at reading plugs as some are.