Andrew

Hey guys, I'm a FI newbie, so take it easy on me.
I've done many motor swaps, and a couple in my CRX.
Currently I've got a 11:1 fully built D16Z6 in my 1991 CRX Si that I want to get a little more power out of.
It's got 75.50mm bore forged pistons, PnP head, valvetrain/cam, wire tuck to make everything look pretty, the works. All assembled by KMS.




I originally built it to leave it as-is, then recently decided I want a little more power, and wanted to go with some ITB's.
Recently, however, I've been thinking of building a low boost turbo setup instead.

I've looked over many threads, including this sticky on here, which have helped me a lot in trying to decide on what turbo to use.


This being HMT,I'm sure you guys will understand my wanting to stay on a budget. Under $1000? (is this realistic?) Maybe not with quality parts that I'll NEED to invest in...
Let me get my basics down, and maybe you guys can 'fill in the blanks' on stuff I'm incorrect on-

Manifold- Log Manifold (or perhaps an HF if I really can't find anything)
Turbo- IDK, but was thinking something around 6psi; whether it be a junkyard Volvo or w/e or an externally WG'd one. Need some help!! Should I stay small, like a .42/.48?
Oil feed/drain- I believe it's www.--------------------------- that I've heard good things about. Or I could just build my own.
Wastegate- Obviously depends on if I go with an IWG'ed turbo or not.
BOV- havent really searched around that much with brands. I know, however, you get what you pay for! Probably a 38mm though right?
Charge piping/couplers- 2" or 2.5"? Good company to go with for couplers/clamps?
Intercooler- I've also heard good things about JohnnyRaceCar's FMIC's. If I can't find one of these, what is a good substitute? Since I'm running such a low PSI, will eGay FMIC's work ok for me?
Fuel Supply-Already have a Walbro 255lph pump and an Earl's inline filter with -6AN SS braid hose.
Injectors- DSM bluetop 450's.
Tuning- CROME. Have a good friend that tunes.

Is that about everything?
I'm sorry guys, I know this kind of post gets asked ALL the time, but I'm afraid I just have to ask!

Thanks
-Andrew

idiot-stick

sounds like you got it figured out, except bov = whatever works. DSM metal bovs are the shiz.

Andrew

Huh, I was under the impression that the BOV was pretty important, as far as pressure creep, or perhaps I'm thinking of the WG.
Ahh hell IDK. I've got plenty of time to figure it out.

digidan13

id go to siliconeintakes.com for those silicone hoses.

gen4acclude

or go to napa and get neoprene bulk hose and make your own coupler and hit up a truck trailer supplyer locally and get the clamp and im sure they will have the tbolt style as well

cberman

Very good noob post, now just add ****

As far as a turbo, I certainly prefer bigger ones. I had a 42/48 and hated it...much prefered the bigger t3/t04e i ran
Stealthmode makes great oil lines, and the cost is well worth it
BOV -- get something cheap...the 38 mm and quality you were referring to is about wastegates. for bovs, stock ones or egay ftw
charge piping you can get from anywhere. racing-solutions on here is pretty cheap
intercooler-- new johnny race cars dont really exist anymore...egay ftw again
Fuel supply -- through your bling in the trash and replace it with a worn out honda fuel pump and dry rotted rubber fuel line

How good is your friend at tuning? Gonna need need to make sure hes decent with teh higher c/r

Andrew

BigButtsRus.com

Turbo- The only thing that concerns me about getting a bigger/better flowing turbo is the fact that I'm only wanting to 1. boost a 1.6l, and 2. boost to ~6psi. If I use a turbo off of.. say a 2.5l engine, wouldn't that mess with spool time? I'd like to be reaching full-spool around 3k. Any ideas on turbo selection?

Well, I've been reading a little more about effective compression ratios, and given my 11:1 compression, if I boosted 6 PSI, it would be about a 15.6:1 effective ratio. Most guys that run low compression/high boost have ECR's in the mid-20's, so as far as that's looking, I should be fine.
However, I don't know what it is about higher compression ratio motors/boost thats so hazardous. Even though the #'s look like it should be fine, I just know that most of the motors that are built like this don't last long.

Can someone explain this to me? Links are great too! I love reading...
And is it too out-of-sight to try and aim for a pretty long engine life? maybe 30k? I know tuning is gonna be the key.

As far as tuning, my buddy Max Muller is a pretty decent tuner. He's been using CROME for about 4-4 1/2 years now; Obviously he'll admit he's a noob at it, but he's also been an engine builder for about that long, so he knows what to look for as far as timing and things go.
IDK. I'll have to talk with him about it. he'll probably think I'm crazy for wanting to boost on my compression, but maybe with the facts he'll agree that it'll be fun!


Any links/articles/write-ups would be greatly appreciated fellas. I'm trying to do as much research as I can before I start buying stuff. I'd like to be 100% confident I can do it.



A few questions about the actual construction...
- Whats the advantage of using T-bolts as opposed to.. well... hose clamps?
- Why does the BOV not have to be quality?


Thanks for the help guys!
-Andrew

imburne

big butts rus.com does not count as ****.. We need to see pics. I could care less because I get **** by the boat load, but its basically your step closer to being a man here. Do it or be hated and outcasted by the tribe.

Toysrme

Hehehehehe 15 1/2:1 compression ratio.

gen4acclude

this still shows us that ur the ***