Foowee

Overbore doesn't matter. Fresh hone+new rings means you need to use both high vacume and high load(acceleration) to flex the rings so the face can be filed to match the bore and create a good seal.

Loserkidwac

That link is pretty good and nteresting...I didn't see anythign about boost though...I'd still imagine you'd boost it if you were going to be

JDMFantasy2K

personally i don't think it matters. Think of all the cars that come from the factory turbo'd. They don't get a chance to break-in in NA form. So if you're building the motor for boost, then how is it really any different than a new boosted car? Just make sure you break it in, and if you're breaking it in with boost take it easy. Maybe keep it around 5lbs for a while or something. I personally think the most important part of break in is seating the rings against the cylinder walls, which is usually done in about 30 minutes anyway. After that change the oil frequently and don't baby it, don't beat it.

egcivic94

just drive it like you normally would for about 500 miles, if you use synthetic oil you need to use conventional oil for the break-in period, then drain and refill, drive normal to semihard for another 500 miles and change oil again, now you can use the synthetic oil and drive it hard, that's what I did and it has held up fine, my buddy with a 11 secound all-motor civic done the same, but again do some research and you'll be alright

sohcpwr

yea, definately use regular oil. I broke mine in at 10psi. Rings will seat from 4-5 good rippers in 3rd gear

hyper4mance2k

I wish breaking in a rotary was as easy... Best way to do it is on an engine dyno. Takes hours and thousands of miles to properly break one in.

Erich

Different motor than most here but I put the turbos on from the initial start up. Plan was to open the wastegates but I could not bring myself to do it. I just kept the boost low (ie drove easy) for the first thousand miles. After that, took it to the dyno to check the a/f etc. and was running hard ever since.
Erich

UltimX

i wouldn't trust that link. I have heard that it does take about 1k to break in. I have also heard that unfamiliar parts don't like to be abused until all the inconsistences have been accounted for. Thus the longer break in period. The way I was told and have done it is, start ur car, warm it up to op temp. make sure no leaks. take it out for a spin only going to 3k or 3.5k. after every 200 miles increase the rpm by .5k. every 20 miles inbetween rev it to the set rev limit. after you have done it all the way until the set rpm is at where your cars redline is, you are done. change the oil half way through and after you are done with the break in process. Worked for me, engien never pulled so hard. Also, for the statement about cars not being broken in at the factory, there were many debates about this, and from what i have heard, the companies did run the car, but it is unknown how long, and what the condition was. like many people have said before, research your self and come to the decision on your own on which method u would like to use.

On a side note: that moto link, i have heard people trying it and bad things have happened to some peoples engines. But I have heard good things about it too. So i don't know. The method i used came from a reliable source so thats why i used it.

Tom-Guy

I took Trav-***' $9000 long block and fed it 18 psi on .60 T3/T04E by the time it clocked 25 miles.

Less than a thousand miles later it has seen 18 psi on T67/T4, 9500 rpms, and a headgasket from redneck drivers trying for over 500 on pumpgas. The bores are mint, you can see the crosshatching, and leakdown test is near perfect despite expecting immediate wear on valve guides with an engine like this.

Boost hurts nothing. What hurts is bad tuning and failure to build enough combustion pressure to seat rings.