Bolting it all together
#11
Re: Bolting it all together
I bought some nuts from a motorfactors designed for use on exhaust manifolds.
They're made from copper (copper coloured anyway) and have a section which clamps onto the thread. A friend races in the saloon car championships and uses them, so i think you'd find them satisfactory. Can't for the life of me remember what they're called, but they were cheap.
They're made from copper (copper coloured anyway) and have a section which clamps onto the thread. A friend races in the saloon car championships and uses them, so i think you'd find them satisfactory. Can't for the life of me remember what they're called, but they were cheap.
#16
Re: Bolting it all together
Well I put everything together with those crazy nord lock stainless steel washers. I was sold after seeing them at the PRI show two or three years ago. Two little bags of washers for 38 dollars is a ------- joke.
Randy
Randy
#17
Re: Bolting it all together
Originally Posted by iceracercrx
All good stuff. My problem has been looseing of hardware all over the car. Running solid mounts and out on our bumpy tracks I think cause things to loosen up. I guess I have to check them more often. I hate nut and bolting cars at the track because it's cold.
Randy
PS I ordered some nordlock washer which seem pretty trick and I have used them for rotor+hat hardware with good results. http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=51.16.37
Randy
PS I ordered some nordlock washer which seem pretty trick and I have used them for rotor+hat hardware with good results. http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=51.16.37
theres always loctite....
#18
Re: Bolting it all together
Originally Posted by BLAAST
good bolts for turbo and all The HOT stuff are very important.
i found the bolts that are shinny or yellowish like honda bolts are generally not appropriate to bolt a turbo, they end up slacking with heat and you most of the times tear the threads off when unscrewing them.
stainless bolts are no better. They are more prone to seize with thermocycling. However they are perfect for non heating applications like the compressor cover and oil drain.
for manif, wastegate, downpipe and turbo, the bolts I prefer are the black ones. it's not always possible (to me) to determine exactly their grade, but my rule of thumb: they're never shiny and always black.
Also, you never use lock nuts on hot parts. if anything, only nice, thick, flat washers and i like those to be black too. not shinny.
i found the bolts that are shinny or yellowish like honda bolts are generally not appropriate to bolt a turbo, they end up slacking with heat and you most of the times tear the threads off when unscrewing them.
stainless bolts are no better. They are more prone to seize with thermocycling. However they are perfect for non heating applications like the compressor cover and oil drain.
for manif, wastegate, downpipe and turbo, the bolts I prefer are the black ones. it's not always possible (to me) to determine exactly their grade, but my rule of thumb: they're never shiny and always black.
Also, you never use lock nuts on hot parts. if anything, only nice, thick, flat washers and i like those to be black too. not shinny.
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