b20 turbo wont start
#1
b20 turbo wont start
First off this is my first post but I have been looking on this forum and site for years now and you'll have been a big help but I have a issue that I can't figure out
Just out my b20 turbo motor in my 94 teggy and now not starting. Here's the break down
Jdm b20
Ls head
Arp head studs
Stock hg
Dsm 450cc injectors
Egay 60 trip turbo
Chipped p72 ecu for rc550cc
Walboro 255 pump
I am getting fuel and spark but not starting. Timing seems to be dead on from what a friend says and did
Pulled the plugs out and were drenched in fuel and u can smell a lot of fuel when turning over but won't even try to start. Do you'll think because of the ecu being basemapped for rc 550cc injecotrs that when I put dsm 450cc injectors in that its just dumping fuel and causing it not to spark in the cylinder?
Also car does not have a lower timing cover on her. I might see if I can get my old one off my old motor and cut it out and just place it over my crank pulley to see if timing is good. But my friend lined up the cams on tdc with the holes in the cam caps which I know is correct. But st the bottom end he confused me. He was using two marks on the crank (can be seen if looking in the bay down to the pulley) and lined those up with a 2 and a notch on the left side of the tensioner. Is this correct?
Anyone's take on what it can be please chime in. Trying to get car tuned soon but need to see if I got any leaks or anything before hand
Just out my b20 turbo motor in my 94 teggy and now not starting. Here's the break down
Jdm b20
Ls head
Arp head studs
Stock hg
Dsm 450cc injectors
Egay 60 trip turbo
Chipped p72 ecu for rc550cc
Walboro 255 pump
I am getting fuel and spark but not starting. Timing seems to be dead on from what a friend says and did
Pulled the plugs out and were drenched in fuel and u can smell a lot of fuel when turning over but won't even try to start. Do you'll think because of the ecu being basemapped for rc 550cc injecotrs that when I put dsm 450cc injectors in that its just dumping fuel and causing it not to spark in the cylinder?
Also car does not have a lower timing cover on her. I might see if I can get my old one off my old motor and cut it out and just place it over my crank pulley to see if timing is good. But my friend lined up the cams on tdc with the holes in the cam caps which I know is correct. But st the bottom end he confused me. He was using two marks on the crank (can be seen if looking in the bay down to the pulley) and lined those up with a 2 and a notch on the left side of the tensioner. Is this correct?
Anyone's take on what it can be please chime in. Trying to get car tuned soon but need to see if I got any leaks or anything before hand
#2
Does the cylinders have good compression?
I would double check the timing, do a compression test, check the fuel pressure, install some new cheap spark plugs for testing, and take a sample of fuel out of the fuel line to see if the gas is seperated.
You may have to keep priming the fuel system until all of the air is out.
My busa was doing the same thing and it fired up as soon as I drained the old dark brown gas and installed some four year old plugs.
Good luck.
I would double check the timing, do a compression test, check the fuel pressure, install some new cheap spark plugs for testing, and take a sample of fuel out of the fuel line to see if the gas is seperated.
You may have to keep priming the fuel system until all of the air is out.
My busa was doing the same thing and it fired up as soon as I drained the old dark brown gas and installed some four year old plugs.
Good luck.
#5
Haha yea I live in winston but.used to live in Miami. But I'm buying a test light and gonna have a good friend time it. From what I can tell its got compression. I can hear it but no fire still after stock ecu and injectors
#6
ok got bad news
did everything i could to see what it was and rule everything out well i did and this is what i found
compression results
0
0
30
0
We all think that that the head is fucked bad. Head was bought off a guy that lives near me and me and my dumbass self didnt get it checked cause i knew the guy.
Gonna take that head off tomorrow and take the head off my old block and get them pressure test and use the head that will be best. I got three heads laying here.
Is there any way it can be the block? The cylinder walls were not scarred at all and the motor turns beautifuly.
did everything i could to see what it was and rule everything out well i did and this is what i found
compression results
0
0
30
0
We all think that that the head is fucked bad. Head was bought off a guy that lives near me and me and my dumbass self didnt get it checked cause i knew the guy.
Gonna take that head off tomorrow and take the head off my old block and get them pressure test and use the head that will be best. I got three heads laying here.
Is there any way it can be the block? The cylinder walls were not scarred at all and the motor turns beautifuly.
#7
are you 100% positive that you timed the cams correctly? it only takes one revolution of the motor with incorrect timing to bend valves. whenever the compression is 0 psi thats usually a sure sign of bent valves. doubt you have a block issue since it ran before. pull the head off and inspect the valves. you will clearly see the valves bent causing the valves not to seat. you will also see a valve indentation in the pistons. if this is the case then you need to follow the poroper cam timing adjustment in a manual.
#8
are you 100% positive that you timed the cams correctly? it only takes one revolution of the motor with incorrect timing to bend valves. whenever the compression is 0 psi thats usually a sure sign of bent valves. doubt you have a block issue since it ran before. pull the head off and inspect the valves. you will clearly see the valves bent causing the valves not to seat. you will also see a valve indentation in the pistons. . if this is the case then you need to follow the poroper cam timing adjustment in a manual.
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12-10-2005 05:16 PM