2008 Daewoo Matiz Turbo by Boost Freaks
 

Hi guys,

So this is my first completed turbo project and I thought I´d also document it on a foreign forum, because I´ve sincerely wished someone had done it before, I would have been spared a lot of trial and error.

Basically, base car would be like this:
Engine is a 3 cyl 796 cc, 6 valves, 9.3-1 compression ratio, spurting out a hefty 48bhp and 68 NM of torque. So yeah, it´s a very slow stock car, however it´s a city car so it wasn´t meant to ever be fast.

Why turbo it, you ask? Well, besides the obvious answer ¨Why not?¨, it´s also a very light car to start with (900 kgs with driver and fuel), has very short gear ratios and runs 13 inch wheels, ingredients for good acceleration even if the end power is not big.

For now, here are some pics pre-turbo:

Suspension: SPAX sport springs (30 mm drop) and Kayaba Excel-G shocks, exhaust and some general design (I´ve since then sold the wheels because even if they looked good, the material was weak and they would bend very easily).

More info later on.

Original plan was to fit an IHI turbo from an Isuzu truck, along with a Citroen OEM intercooler, and run the turbo straight down from the exhaust manifold. However, since my car has air conditioning and I wanted to keep that, said mounting procedure turned out to be quite a hassle: it would leave virtually no room to access the oil filter.

So we moved it to the right side of the engine compartment, but for that I´ve had to let go of the original engine fan because it took up the necessary space to accommodate the turbo. With that in mind, and with a little bit more clearance, it was decided to go a bit bigger, so the IHI was swapped for a T2 .36 AR taken from a Citroen-Peugeot 1.7 td engine. This way we could use as little boost as possible as the engine would be left stock for this stage.

Fabrication of the exhaust manifold then started, manufactured exhaust and turbo gaskets (some of them on waterjet), oil feed line bought, oil pan modified for the return line. Feed was taken from the oil filter using a sandwich plate.

At first there were a lot oil leaks, and we addressed that by firstly replacing the seals on the turbo, after which I bought a new TPS sensor (mine was faulty) so that the car would idle correctly. And we found that the turbo install would dramatically drop the idle of the car (to such extent that it wouldn´t spin fast enough to drain all of the oil). The solution was to raise idle by modifying the angle of the throttle body to match the original 950 rpm idle, then maxed it out until it made 1000 rpm (this value was read after the charge pipe was mounted, as the ECU intervenes and keeps it in check; with the turbo spinning free it would put out more). With these mods made, all oil leaks were addressed and the turbo ran properly. So you could easily say that this is a the biggest problem this build raised until now, as the T2 is simply huge in relation to the car´s tiny 0.8 L engine.

Here´s a little video I made at this point in the build.

Next up, test fitting the FMIC (which came all the way from Taiwan, myself living in Romania), fabrication of the charge pipe and down pipe, re-wrapping the exhaust (this is a must, as you can see it now sits very close to the spark plug wires) and choosing the blow off valve. I went for HKS Super SQV Type 4 71008-AK001, unused, original packaging complete with authenticity certificate, but at half the market price (got pretty lucky there). It's a little overkill but it works great and I don't have to worry about setting it to a specific threshold, it just opens at any given pressure.

AFR monitoring is a must, so I've procured the AEM package, complete with a wideband sensor. Cloned the bung from the wideband so I could also fit the car's narrowband original O2 sensor, placed them both after the turbo (rule of thumb, distance would be about ten times the diameter of the downpipe) and fitted the gauges.

Remaining step would be to put the bov to use, thus made a fitting to the charge pipe, t-ed off of a vacuum line and voila, we have boost!

This here was one of the first test drives: extra light on the pedal and shifting early as it was not yet tuned, but that HKS already seems like a very good fit.

looks like a fun project, reminds me of my friend who drag raced a Geo Metro, turboed of course. I think it was a 3 cyl.

It is quite a fun car to drive now, however it's not made for racing (at least not at this point), rather it's going to be used as a weekend car.

As for the tuning, I've opted for a package deal of installing and setting up a piggyback system on a dyno bench (more specific: Unichip). Now, based on a rough estimate of the engine specs, I´ve calculated a safe boost level of around 0.4 bar (5.8 psi), so the internal wastegate was modified for that specific pressure and tuning began.

It´s worth noting that the engine and fuel delivery are bone stock at this point, so I wasn´t expecting anything special, yet there were a couple of nice surprises: first off, the car has a knock sensor which works great, and setting up a fuel map was a breeze. And second, the MAP sensor sees boost, specifically up to 0.3 bar, and with the margin of error incorporated it was just enough to handle the 0.4 bar that the turbo gave, without having to resort to a MAP module install (or replacement of the original for that matter).

With that said, below you can see a graph of the highest run the car has put out on the bench, compared to a stock Daewoo Matiz (not mine, since it was almost never stock :) ). The guys fiddled a little bit with the fuel pump and the car ended up leaving the shop with a more conservative tune (about 78bhp and 110 NM torque), just to be on the safe side. All in all, roughly two thirds increase from the original specs seems like a great deal with such low boost, the only thing left to upgrade now is the clutch, as it gives in at peak torque and its making the car lose precious time when shifting gears.

I´ve also procured an air filter (brand new BMC, need a modified adapter for it so it´s not in yet) and front brake upgrades (ATE disks and pads) which I´ll be putting in come spring, because now the snowy season just started, the low ground clearance is a bitch and I don´t wan´t to stress it more than needed.

And here´s a video showing third and fourth gear redlining; once I get the new clutch in and only with me in the car, I´ll probably shave at least one second off of that time. For now it´ll have to do.

P.S: running on 100 RON petrol, best I have available here. No knock whatsoever.
P.S.2: disregard the CEL light, I´m getting a TPS error which doesn´t seem to go away (car idles just fine) so there´s no worry there.
P.S.3: the whooosh of the turbo is just magic to the ears, as you can probably hear on the video, and it completely overshadows the sound of the BOV at high speeds. Not that I complain though :)

Do you have a picture of you injectors? Design wise the same setup is used in daewoos e-tec and s-tec, both three and four cyl. The 1.6 out of an aveo, or the 1.8 out of the cruze/sonic should be interchangeable. Send me a pic of the injector and the connector and I'll compare. The cruzes are 270cc, should be more than enough for 800cc engine

This is the injector for matiz, its not mine evidently as I've not pulled anything out of the engine yet. This is for euro 3&4 models which has 4 nozzles, the euro 2 model has only one nozzle, but that's the only difference as far as I know.

If you know something that can match, I'm interested if it would be also suitable for an increased displacement (in the off chance that's even possible, I'm aiming for 1.0L)

I've fiddled around with an injector size calculator, and it tells me that having a 270cc size that's running at a recommended of 80% duty cycle, I'll be in the ballpark for about 100 bhp. Realistically, I'll probably be pushing more than that so I guess I'll have to get something even bigger.

My buddy just upgraded the injectors on his s4 Audi. Look at the pic, the 2.7 turbo Audi v6 out of his car have the same adaptors. The stock ones are 390cc, he upgraded to 550cc.

Unfortunately he already sold these on ebay

Hmm they look amazingly similar :). Well, as I've said before, for now I'm just looking for information regarding to what I'll be doing at stage two, so I'll keep them in mind when the actual search begins.

Some details :d

So, after just several hundred km's my fancy HKS SSQV just died, unable to open at all; all I could hear was turbo surge.

Vacuum lines were fine, boost gauge ran great, so the BOV was opened only to find, in the dead center of it, an itsy bitsy tiny miny check valve that was the most probable cause of pressure leak (I didn't get any pictures, but its just a little piece of circular rubber, thin as one could get, with a nipple on one side and a diameter so small that you could barely hold it with two fingers).

And since getting another BOV is just out of the question for now, it was fixed in true HMT style: we glued it shut with some black silicone paste, put the whole thing back together, tested with a vacuum pump and now it seems to work just fine.

Now I'm leaving it alone for some time so that the whole mess will solidify inside and I'm putting it back on in the next days and go for a test drive. What that means though is that I've had to limp home without the BOV (it was supposed to be a 2 minute drive and it turned into 10 :) ), car would die at idle due to overfueling and put out some nasty shocks while attempting to maintain speed. Not to mention I had to switch gears every 10km/h. It was not fun at all.

P.S: I think monday I'll get some pictures to show the boost limiter on the internal wastegate :D.

Forgot to take that picture :)

Until then, ghetto, rain and turbo...

The clutch is ready!

I've bought a stock kit and sent it to be modified. The pressure plate now has more clamping force and the clutch disc has been upgraded to ceramic. The flywheel was not modified.

Install should be made at the end of the month (along with some other little upgrades), as for now I'm heading out of town on vacation.

I think your Matiz Korean version. we in Uzbekistan also produces cars Matiz only it is a little different: here he look

https://www.homemadeturbo.com/attach...ine=1407307825
http://bibi.uz/images/offers/5495-2.jpg
http://img.drivenn.ru/637/162/637162...b662/image.jpg

Yeah I know the model, it was not produced for my country (although we had a Daewoo factory here).

The new clutch is right on target and it also handles pretty well in city traffic.

Next round of mods is right around the corner: oil catch tank, bigger fuel pump and injectors, upgraded MAP sensor...so I can up the boost a little bit :) .

Also as part of the next round of mods I plan to install a cold air intake for the car. Not for added power, but I want to lower the intake temps during idle in hot ambient temperatures (summer where I live gets unbearable sometimes).

It wasn't an issue before, but due to the layout of the exhaust manifold and the placement of the turbo, it sucks in air at some insane temps during summer (I haven't measured it, but the hood gets so hot that you can't even place a hand on it).

The obvious position for the air filter would be inside the bumper and it will be done by welding the piece of pipe on which the filter stands directly to the car via some kind of fabricated mount. After that a hole will be drilled to accommodate piping towards the turbo.

Length should be more about 30-40 cm so the best connecting solution would be a flexible intake hose. Question is, what kind of material should it be. Any opinions? (I'll probably order something from ebay but I don't know what type of tube to choose...)

Nice little racer you built there, congrats :) *thumb up*
I see that you took a diesel-turbo. As far as I know these turbos are not build for the higher exhaust temperatures a petrol engine produces, and therefore these turbos are not water cooled. If you could source a water cooled T2 turbo of a petrol car it would probably be longer lasting and give you colder intake temps as well.
Greetings and happy boosting :)

Thanks man!

The donor car was very old, my mechanic assures me this type of old generation turbo can withstand the temps of a petrol engine, especially since I'm running low boost. There were no issues so far with the turbo. Moreso, by May i'm planning to rebuild it profesionally into a hybrid and get as near as possible to 100 engine hp on stock internals. And I'm not calling it a racer until it survives a track day , but I'll need a few more upgrades for that :) So far it has survived a drag weekend :)

So stay tuned, 2015 will bring new stuff for this 0.8 liter beast :D

Ok, that's good if its a strong turbo. What car is it from?
What are your plans for the turbo upgrade? A bigger compressor wheel would not make much sense here, because its a low boost application, right? Or is the boost dropping at higher rpm's?
How do you want to upgrade the clutch? Is there a larger clutch from a bigger Daewoo that fits p&p? That's maybe the only solution, because I guess there are no aftermarket performance clutches for this car.
Happy boosting mate :)

PS:
A nice upgrade always is an electronic boost controller. Especially on a low boost application. If it's properly configured, your can reach your boost limit sooner in the lower rpm's. I realized that on my turbo build lately :D

Turbo is from an old Citroen 1.7 diesel, internal wastegate, early nineties or something, I think it already had 100k + miles on it already :)) It's old school so that means no electronics for it, boost level is set via the wastegate rod (could upgrade to a manual boost controller, but I don't think it will ever be necessary)

We're using an additional spring to keep the boost lower than the minimum wastegate setting so no, boost is not dropping at all :)) , actually the threshold at which it kicks in is at 3200 rpm (measured on 4th gear) and holds right until redline (6400), but the upgrade is made considering power in mind and with plans for the future where most likely it will be pushing 20+ psi. This is practically what you would call a 'big turbo' for this engine, drives likes stock until you take it above 3200 rpm and apply some load on the throttle.

The upgrade will be indeed a bigger compressor wheel, but made of a lighter material, so along with a turbo blanket it should eventually spool even quicker while delivering a higher flow at the same psi. I'm hoping to reach 100 engine hp with about 8-8.5 psi, which will be more than a 100% increase in both power and torque from stock.

Clutch is already upgraded, ceramic disk along with a hardened pressure plate, you can see some pics earlier in the topic. I know it will hold 100 hp, but not how much after that :) I'll probably need another upgrade along the way.

It's a very long term project, it will probably need a few more years to reach its maximum potential. I'm hoping that this setup along with a built transmission and engine will break 150 engine hp, hell maybe even get it closer to 200.

P.S: Aside the suspension, everything that you see (and that will be added later) is custom build for this car, as there virtually no aftermarket parts for it that fit my desired application.

Sounds interesting. Custom made parts are nicer anyway :) "build, not bought parts, for the build, not bought car" :D
Yeah, if your boost is under the WG pressure, then the use of an electr. BC might not be possible. But for your later goals it would be nice, because it keeps the WG shut until the set boost. With just the spring actuator or manual BC there is always a certain band where it opens already a little before the desired boost.
I guess for the 150+ hp goals some head work is gonna be inevitable, due the ports / valves are laid-out for what? 50hp? :D . And like you said already, some forged pistons, rods etc. will be necessary.
Greetings mate

Yeah, the car is stock at 48 hp :D

It will definitely need a full build of the engine, complete with a bigger TB, a proper intake manifold - I'm thinking aluminum (stock is plastic :D) and a stronger PCV valve made for turbo applications.

What will be most tricky won't be the engine, though, but to build a sturdy transmission with some proper gearing.

Only time will tell what's going to happen :)

And another quick video with the BOV and intake sound.

You forgot to mention an oil cooler ;) But the list goes on anyway. I built a NA-T car as well, and I also had to make a lot of changes :D
But why do you need a bigger PCV valve? My crankcase ventilation is just leading into the suction pipe in front of the turbo. I'm not sure a PCV valve would really be necessary!?

On this car the PCV system is not only there for ventilation, but it actually supplies part of the air needed for idle. So I can't delete it, but I will need a stronger valve as the stock one has a chance of failing and I don't want boost going where it's not supposed to :D

And speaking of custom build parts, I've just received a little upgrade: the stock 4.5J R13 ET45 steel rims have been converted to 5.8J R13 ET26. Goodies!

Have you just welded in a spacer ring?

No, they are made from two sets.

They look awesome! :D
Post a pic of them on the car then plz :)

I will. As soon as I get adequate tires for them and actual spring comes around to the area :)
For now I'm still running on the winter set.

Tires have arrived. Brand new Yokohamas, A539 175/60R13, made in Japan.

Will need some fender work, rear is scraping a bit on big bumps while the front sits awkward due to the axle being wider.

I like it :D
Yeah, front fenders definitely need some work.
I bet it performs even better now, more traction and also better grip in curves due to more track width.

I only got around to driving a few miles in the city so I don't have much of an impression to make, however the first thing I noticed is that the weight of the wheels bogs down the car a bit...

Unfortunately most of the extra weight comes from the tire itself and not the widened rim, so there's nothing that I can really do about it except ramp up the boost :6

The new 175/60 tire is 1.5 kg (3.3 pounds) heavier than the old 155/65...

Hmm, ok, but 1.5 kg isn't too bad. If you can get your hands on a set of matching aluminum wheels you could get that weight back I guess... But not now that you made these nice DIY steel wheels :D they have to stay on at least a while.

Yeah it's not much but it's not like a have loads of torque to handle it :)

An increase in tire weight from 4.7 kg to 6.2 kg is a lot for this car, even half a kg is noticeable. I've looked for aluminum rims before, but 'wide' and '13 inch' automatically means competition rims and they cost a small fortune to get them to my country. These will have to do for now :)

I've driven it a little bit more in the city today to get more feel out of the new setup.

Comfort has increased due to the tire wall being slightly higher than before, braking and cornering feels improved, however I've not pushed out on the throttle because rear is scraping a helluva lot more than I noticed coming home from the tire shop. I will need to fix that asap, luckily I know someone who can handle this problem and it should be done by the end of next week. And since I don't have the time to drive it during monday-friday, that's not an issue.

Also I've noticed that indeed the compound is very silent. I can hear all of the other noises that the car makes in operation but not the road contact.

As for acceleration, I think it was more of a placebo effect what I first noticed. The real shift in focus is that it comes into boost more gradually than before due to the extra weight but then it starts to pull normally.

However when I'm done with the turbo upgrade I'm hoping to increase the torque band a little so that should address the laziness feel on bottom end rpm.

Rear fenders are done, no more scraping!

Great, still got an OEM look :D

The size of the tires is actually part of OEM documentation, however they weren't meant to be fitted on rims with this kind of offset :D