37,5 L/s is the amount that gets sucked in. The amount after the turbo and in the intercooler is compressed and therefor it's 25 L/s, thats right. It's still a lot, and still proves what I meant.

No, you are wrong again, we cant make nothing of something, Imagine 1L bottle with 1bar inside adding more pressure will add more flow , so flow will increase not decrease like you counting ;)

And with out turbo regular flow @3000rpm would have 16.9L/s ;)

Great debate, I personally haven't researched this at all since I was always running very low boost :)

But since you're at it, consider this intercooler, on this engine, around 6500 rpm redline and let's say 15 psi.

Although if I hit 15 psi that's almost 120-130 hp territory.

On the other hand I was wondering how much hp is the stock TB good for.

If I remember correctly, the TB is 45 mm with 40 mm venturi restriction right at the entrance of the intake manifold.

According to my calculations pressure drop on TB even with 1bar of boost @ flow rate 155.18CFM or 91.3L/s as u wish (that would give 1bar boost @ 6500rpm) would be so insignificant you would not even notice it as it would be 0.01bar ;) @ 2 bars of boost would be only 0.04bar of pressure drop so first you would blow engine than have significant restriction in flow to have limited HP because of it ;)

No, that is not correct!
A 4-stroke engine sucks up its capacity in every two revolutions. Means this 1 liter engine sucks up 1 liter of air in 2 revolutions. At 3000 rpm it makes 50 rps. This means it sucks up 50 times half its capacity per second. That is 25 liters per second. That is naturally aspirated with a volumetric efficiency of 100% (real values might be around 90%).

No, that doesn't matter! If it is under pressure or not, The VOLUME stays the same! And we are talking about the volume not the mass of air.

Did I write anywhere about mass ? You think in wrong direction, have you ever tune a diesel car seems not , more flow equals more mass = more pressure equals more flow in same volume , you think in pressure where engines work on flow and on flow you choose turbo as well ;)

BTW its obvious to me you have no idea on what you talk about as I have clearly stated units of flow, and you talk about volume which has nothing to do in here .

Boy, go back to school. You are talking weird ---- here which makes no sense. How does flow get defined? Its usually a volume per time, like m3/s. In volume the component pressure is not included. So the flow is the same, if its under pressure or not! But what am I talking to a smart ass troll. I am finish here with you, as you will anyway not understand. I realize now that YOU have no clue.
Btw, I am a physics teacher and an engineer.

Then you must teach in play school !! , I'm talking mathematics if you are engineer then quite poor one as you have no idea what you talk about, and clearly have no clue inner workings of combustion engine, you have clearly NOT tune any car nor diesel or petrol in turbo other wise you would know about air flow and and is most important part in combustion engines , more flow = more mass of air in same volume , more mass of air in same volume equals more pressure and this allows for more fuel do be mixed in and will generate more hp is this explains for you if I put it like for 10year old kid ? Why have you not calculated or answer question about TB ?

BTW. if you looking for boy look in mirror, I bet my kids are older than you :p

Results are in.

114 Hp & 143 Nm @ 1 bar of boost. Stock internals, stock intake manifold, stock throttle body and stock gearbox.

Let me bring back the NA measured figures: 48 Hp and 68 Nm.

This is all at the crank.

Dyno load was set lower than the car sees on the street (they were skeptical about what the engine could handle) so this is why it appears that the turbo kicks in late.

Tuner tells me that on the street it pulls nicely and from relatively low rpm.

I have not yet driven it because I have not yet brought the car home (engine control setup was done in a different country from where I live).

We used VEMS for engine management.

The car is now running on brand new Denso Iridium IK24 plugs (stock were NGK's), new spark plug wires, 100 RON pump fuel.

From what they told me, they also installed an electronic boost solenoid, an LCD display ...and set up adjustable launch control + ALS from the software!! How sick is that!

Cannot wait to bring it home!

Nice :)
Thrilled to see a video of that car on the road

So I brought the car home but I had forgotten to update the topic

Key features of the install:

- boost output varies based on throttle position. for example i won't see full boost unless a primary condition of TPS at 100% is met. this works nice and is a good thing to have as a failsafe to prevent unwanted boost spikes should the WG actuator fail
- check engine light set to work as a shift light
- electronic boost control
- a more capable MAP sensor (VEMS proprietary)
- introduced a loop in idle values at higher IAT's to help with cooling
- an lcd display for live engine data monitoring (TPS, IAT's lambda etc). very useful to diagnoze stuff should anything fail
- analog switches for antilag and launch control
- revmeter signal straight from the ECU
- setup was done on 250 cc injectors (the math said it shouldn't have worked, but they seem to hold the AFR's steady so that is good)

Stuff that was deleted in the process:

- stock ECU
- piggyback ECU
- EGR
- AFR AEM (they fitted a proprietary lambda sensor to feed values directly into the ECU)
- carbon canister removed
- PVC valve deleted completely (no more blowby in the intake)

Here are some short videos, I will make more in the future.


The car drives very nice, tune works great in every regime.

I have only a single issue. We've made the turbo work so well (boost threshold around 200 rpm lower than before) and put out enough cfm that the engine can't take the whole air in and the compressor reaches the surge line during load in high boost.

I couldn't have foreseen this since there are no compressor maps available for this turbo, let alone to account for the custom built billet intake wheel.

I plan to adress this in the future by going all out crazy:
- modified cam
- ported head
- a bigger turbo to induce lag on the stock form engine
- custom built intake manifold with an continuously driven eaton supercharger.

Yes, that means a twincharged setup (TC > IC > SC >intake), with instant boost from idle and no lag.

Plan is to run a low boost pulley at the SC (for around 5 psi) and start with the minimal setting on the TC (7-7.5 psi). This would yield a compound boost value of around 15psi in the intake, while keeping both SC and TC spinning at very low speeds, thus keeping IAT's low and eliminating the need of an aftercooler after the SC.

There would be no additional electronics involved, no need for a SC clutch, we would need only to move the feed of the turbo wastegate line in the intake manifold instead from the compressor housing and also move the BOV feed line and put it in the SC intake (after the TB).

However meanwhile, everything works great, there is no oil consumption so the turbo is still working good despide the occasional surge.

https://pp.userapi.com/c637230/v6372...a485nrHNbg.jpg


I also have a turbo Matiz. True it is volume 1,2 with a slightly milled head, aftermarket camshaft. Turbine WAG of 1.4. Pressure is 0.5 bar. Drives very well. The main difficulty we have in setting up the onboard computer.

There is a lot about my Matiz.
https://www.drive2.ru/r/daewoo/1452497/

That sounds cool!

Here's mine on the dragstrip.

Great rides.
I slightly changed the intake system. Returned to the place of the stock filter housing, and hid it blow off. Now I do not hear any special effects. Sounds like the drain.
Plans to raise the boost pressure to 0.8 bar.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...1bf97c0a74.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...0f010aa23b.jpg

This looks very tidy , what turbo u have used ? as I see u have A/C did u had any issues ? Do u still have first cat. or it was removed for space purpose ?

The turbine WAG of 1.4. With its installation had trouble. But get everything up and running. If I understand correctly the question, the air conditioning was not a problem. It does not bother me. The cat had to be removed. But it is temporary. Soon underneath in the usual place put from Toyota.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...11b659c1bd.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...f4d989b0c4.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...0ecb06dbb8.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...6e2b07860a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...b985fbb96c.jpg

In fact very nice setup , I personally have found turbo from vw polo 1.4 tdi it's very small . I was asking about cat as there is dual cat setup in some of them 1 is right after manifold and second in usual place ;) What Ecu u have used ?

I have the turbine from the 1.4 TSI engine. It is for 1.2, not very big. She's just a little later comes on to boost. If the motor 1,4 16v it was blowing already from 1500 rpm, in my 1.2 engine it comes on boost at 2200 rpm. What I think is a very good thing. But that's not the point. With this turbine, the motor spins up to cutoff with no loss of torque!
Computer regular Sirius D4. Injector nozzles from the Volga is 2.4. Adjusted the mixture at idle and under load. I know that's not quite right, but it works.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hom...71fde8e845.jpg

Sweet , have u made program for ecu ur self ? That's interesting I think that 2200rpm to start boost is perfect ;)


BTW. nice photo ;)

Yeah, there are other things to consider rather than just mixture. Also, no intercooler? You are looking for trouble lol.

This winter I will start engine upgrades. Every part will be custom built and machined, evidently, so it will take a while before everything is done and put together.

Plan is forged internals, aggressive camshaft, ported head, aluminum intake plenum with large diameter runners and whatever else is needed on the side (upgraded valve springs, piston rings etc). I am looking to improve volumetric efficiency of the engine in order to move inside the efficiency zone of the turbo, then having the forged internals I can increase the boost as well. Looking to build 150 hp or more, depending on what RPM the engine will spin. Currently it has a flat power curve under the 5900-6500 range and cutoff is set to around 6800. This is already higher than stock considering 0 engine mods. Stock NA it made peak power at 6000 rpm and would cutoff around 6300 or so.

With the camshaft, ported head and short intake runners, I believe it will be able to spin over 7500 rpm.

Yes but short intake will cause lots of trouble on idle , more less there is no point boring and using bigger pistons as crank shaft will crack , I was working as a engineer in daewoo corp and let me tell u I'm still amazed that it did not happen yet :D, much more efficient will be to fit 1.0L or 1.2L engine and drop CR in it to ~7.5:1 then u can make more boost much safer and much more fun ;)

The program was corrected and filled the local chip tuner.

It is impossible to consider everything. This proves that even standard motors fail. At the moment the boost is 0.5 bar, the air at the time of compression does not significantly heated. If the street is +20 then at a pressure of 0.5 V receiver not more than 50 degrees. Which is quite acceptable, given that the winter is coming. And the intercooler is in the works. In the spring I will put. And then the pressure raised to 0.8 bar.

The head I ported. Valve issue with the slim leg, the camshaft tuning is "Dynamics". Crankshaft with pistons and connecting rods from the Aveo 1,2. The engine without the turbine did not go bad, 11 seconds to 100 km/h But after installing the turbine car not know. In the version in the photo that goes 9 seconds to 100 km/h.

Yes i am aware it will hurt functionality at idle but i am not concerned. I am looking for top end.
Since custom parts will be necessary anyway , I'm betting I can sport for a forged crank as well. I don't plan on boring/stroking because the clearances are small anyway, just make the parts stronger and throw more boost at it.

I have looked into the specs of the 1.0 engine. From the bore/stroke data that engine should rev even more than the 0.8 in stock NA form, however it does 500 rpm less so that means the head/intake design is extremely inefficient to begin with. Plus, swapping a moderately bigger engine like a 1.0 or 1.2 is pointless work from my view, i would have to throw away everything done so far and restart on that. If i would be interested in a swap I might as well throw a V8 on it and call it a day lol.

I simply want to get as much as I can using the stock displacement and block, just to prove that I can lol. End goal for this car would be 200+ using a compound turbo setup.
This 0.8 Suzuki design little engine seems like it has a lot to offer.

Well whatever float ur boat they say , from what I remember this crankshaft is very stressed anyway, keep in mind if this goes sideways it goes with big bang ;) would be sad to see it .

It probably held up ok so far because peak torque is made at such high RPM (compared to a diesel where you can get all that torque right from the start line), that and the fact that the car has no grip early on. Do you have any idea what torque values the stock crank is rated for?

That I had about matiz was about 20years ago so loong time ago, and dont truly remember , but from what I recall there was an issue with crank in 800cc as i think it was same as tico but it did not passed stress test and needed additional strengthening hence there is small pressed curvature on it just by bearings ;) but for how many Nm it is well not much ;)

So do you guys think I could get away with launching in second gear for the next competition I will attend to?

This car's gear ratio's are 3,82:1 in 1'st gear and 2,21:1. Final drive is 4.44 while tires are 175/60R13 (for now at least)
Two step is set at 5k rpm and that's where the peak torque occurs as well.

As you can see from the video posted in the previous page, 1'st is basically full wheel spin, the shift to second happens just before 60 ft, then more wheel spin until finally at around 50 km/h it starts putting some power down.
I'm thinking with such short gears I could get by with launching in second, especially as I have the two step and anti lag assisting the engine and keeping it in boost range.

The 60 ft time and overall ET could improve immensely.

Just curious hows project going ?