Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

dude you know you have to get an aftermarket steering wheel with a ------ huge NAWS button, so when you hit it people go "aw ---- naws yo!"

or better yet have a nice vtec button

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

---- it man, thats what the horn button is for!

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

i dont see why not
all it would do is bleed or not bleed
???

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

if you bleed form the signal line boost will go up. That's how the over boost is going to work, but the purpose of this was to cut boost to what the WG runs w/o help. I'll get to the overboost setup soon enough

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

well you could, it's just the schematics would be all different and the solenoid might not flow enough.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

well ya...
so i would have 7 psi till it opened then had what ever i set my mbc at?

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

ya thats why i was asking about the flow
i might try it or see if i can rig up something else

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Nice job not reading the stickies.

Sounds like you have suspension issues and are confusing those for the way things have to be.

Make a thread about getting traction... because I guarantee you have incorrect castor, camber, and that you have some suspension/drivetrain play if not full blown wheelhop.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

well 8 psi did 304whp and 289 wtq, so 10 psi has to be over 300 ft/lbs. 6 speed, short gears, mechanical advantage, traction suffers in low gears. There is only so much suspension can do.

muchos torque senor, 4th gear pull :8
Attachment 22124



No wheel hop, except at the track. Camber is a little off, but not like cut springs on an Accord, maybe -2*, got Ksports comming soon, I'm already running custom spring rates, it's dampeming and rebound that mainly need addressing. I've got polyurethane motor mount inserts, and thoses are getting replaced with more solid mounts because I've got an industrial size bag of high temp glue sticks I need to put to use.

5 psi grabs 95% of the time, it's right at the threshold. I ran around with a boost controller and a WG w/ a modified spring that ran all of 2psi to find where my traction threshold was, 5 psi is it in first, second could maybe use another psi, but it's a good compromise. That's why my WG is set to 5psi, so if I do ever upgrade to a gear dependant EBC I can boost low enough to keep first in check. Short of running DR's, 2 stage boost was the best option.

If I were going to build a drift car I'd snatch the drive train out of a 2005 Frontier, same motor, RWD config, 5 speed, fat tq curve.

This vid was shot at 8 psi mainly to show how a sequential shift light can aid in the control of wheel spin, mainly just to keep from putting the revlimiter to use, so wheel spin was intentional and no 2 stage boost control was used, I might have pulling onto the main road.

Now if I went out and did that vid again w/ the 2 stage boost control, there would be very little wheel spin, if any at all. Is the suspension complete? No, but it hasn't been ignored either.



http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...h_Project1.jpg

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

You can lay 300-340 whp down in first gear with a Honduh, I've got videos of street tire runs at 13 psi in the CRX vs street tire runs on 24.5's and consistent 7.50-7.60's in the 1/8th. This is a 2000 lb tin can with a short wheelbase - you are dealing with a heavier, stabler vehicle that has a longer wheelbase to ease weight transfer. You should be good for 400.

Like I said, you have suspension problems. You want advice, or to continue making excuses? -2 degrees is a LOT of camber, and that value by itself frankly means nothing since you have to know camber at X suspension travel.