2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Total cost in the boost controller so far, less than $20.

Theory:

The top port of the wastegate usually sees atmospheric pressure, so when the manifold is at 0 on the boost guage, the same amont of atmospheric pressure is acting on the bottom of the wastegate diaphragm as the top, at that point there is no pressure differential across the diaphragm. Like when the car is off.

I use a pressure regulator as a boost controller by altering the pressure differential acting on the diaphragm. If my wastegate spring stabilizes at 5 PSI w/o help form the boost controller, for every 1 PSI I regulate to the top port I increase my manifold boost by 1 PSI by altering the pressure differential, so to equal out pressure now it requires atmospheric + 1 psi on the other side of the diaphragm that sees manifold pressure. 2 psi regulated pressure equals atmospheric + 2 + the 5 the spring regulates, for a total of 7PSI.

Now anyone with a boosted spec knows 1st and 2nd gear are almost usless at 10 PSI, that's life. Now at say 5 PSI they're much better. If my spring allows me to run 5 psi, and w/ the boost controller I run 9-10, how can I run 5 then switch to 9-10?

An air solenoid. If I vent the pressure from the line feeding the pressure regulator I'll run 5psi, when I stop venting it'll run 9-10. So if I set up the soleniod tee'd into the signal line to my boost controller to vent when activated, I'll run 5psi. If I use a n open when powered solenoid, I can use a button mounted to my shifter to run run 5 psi whit the button pressed. That means I can leave the line in first gear at 5 PSI, shift to second at 5 PSI, and let off of the button when I shift to 3rd to run 10 PSI the rest of the run.

Nothing new, just putting it out there.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ntorlvalve.jpg

With the circuit open, air, boost or vaccum, will pass freely between 1 & 2.

With the circuit closed, or energized, air will pass freely between 1 & 3.

#4 is a filter to cap off whichever tube you vent.

Port 1 would go to the top port of the wastegate, between the GW and boost controller. Port 2 would go to the boost controller, and port 3 would vent.

when unenergized air will pass from the boost controller to WG like normal. When energized, port 2 would be blocked from the boost controller, and the top port on the WG would open to the atmosphere like there was no boost controller hooked up.

The button was fine but you have to remember to hold it down and fight the car w/ one hand:

Finally got around to making this automatic, first spec ever with Ghetto Traction Control (GTC). 1st and 2nd gear now automatically run 5psi. I plan on wiring in an override switch for what ever occasion would need me to run more than 5 psi in first and second. 3rd and up runs whatever the boost controller is set to.

This is how I was doing it, some times it gets harry trying to fight the spec w/ one hand when it makes whatever the hell it makes in 1st and 2nd at 5psi.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...es/switch2.jpg

$2
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...es/switch3.jpg

Ghetto Tech custom fab work, need to make the ground wire prettier to be Ghetto Tech Certified.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...es/switch4.jpg

This is a the selector lever on the transmission, for 1st and 2nd the arm swing as closes the switch and vents the MBC, for the rest of the gears the switch is open and the car runs what ever the MBC is set for

I think I'm going to wire the over boost function into the windshield wiper spray switch because I got rid of the washer fluid jug to relocate my battery. There is no need to ever overboost on anything other than a straight away, using the washer lever I can keep both hands on the wheel when laying on the extra power


Just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap.

If had $300 to drop I'd just get an AVCR or World Sport EBC, but I get bored and like to make stuff work.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Pretty cool stuff man, nice writeup.
:6

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

very sweet indeed :y

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

thats a killer write up.

My set up is run 1st and 2nd, and after i put it in third i flip a dash mounted switch, but i have a real dual stage boost controller, might be able to use this for a 3 stage system. ;)

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

I got sick of the button, either I'd have to fight the car one handed or I'd forget to use the button all together.


case and point spin spin spin spin, traction, gone. Totally forgot to hold the button.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdHytJpyeMY


Now whenever it's in 1st or 2nd it's good to go.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

I'm going to do something similar to this, using an ebay solenoid valve + mbc + rare earth magnets + micro reed (magnetic) switches. I'm up to $25 atm, using all new parts. I want to use low boost for 1st/2nd, and will have the magnet on the shift lever, with the switches held where it would be for 1st & second. I like the shift arm idea, but for my stuff I need a longer space between activation - IE longer throw to activate the switch and prevent accidental activation. I don't want low boost in 4th by accident :P

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

fucken sweet man
you think there is much restriction in that solenoid?
my mbc is hooked up to vent pressure from the line going to the wg
wondering if it could cause spikes or go above what i set my mbc at

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

YOU CAN'T USE THIS ON A MBC THAT BLEEDS FROM THE SIGNAL LINE, YOU CAN ONLY DO IT IF YOU REGULATE PRESSURE TO THE TOP PORT OF THE WASTEGATE...................... sorry for yelling

set up like it is, it can't spike, at least not that I've seen

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=75418.0
HMT'ers think alike.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Jeff did somehting like this a few years back i think. his was more of a hold the button down to bleed off some boost while in first and second then once you get traction let it go and then you have full boost.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

dude you know you have to get an aftermarket steering wheel with a ------ huge NAWS button, so when you hit it people go "aw ---- naws yo!"

or better yet have a nice vtec button

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

---- it man, thats what the horn button is for!

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

i dont see why not
all it would do is bleed or not bleed
???

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

if you bleed form the signal line boost will go up. That's how the over boost is going to work, but the purpose of this was to cut boost to what the WG runs w/o help. I'll get to the overboost setup soon enough

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

well you could, it's just the schematics would be all different and the solenoid might not flow enough.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

well ya...
so i would have 7 psi till it opened then had what ever i set my mbc at?

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

ya thats why i was asking about the flow
i might try it or see if i can rig up something else

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Nice job not reading the stickies.

Sounds like you have suspension issues and are confusing those for the way things have to be.

Make a thread about getting traction... because I guarantee you have incorrect castor, camber, and that you have some suspension/drivetrain play if not full blown wheelhop.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

well 8 psi did 304whp and 289 wtq, so 10 psi has to be over 300 ft/lbs. 6 speed, short gears, mechanical advantage, traction suffers in low gears. There is only so much suspension can do.

muchos torque senor, 4th gear pull :8
Attachment 22124



No wheel hop, except at the track. Camber is a little off, but not like cut springs on an Accord, maybe -2*, got Ksports comming soon, I'm already running custom spring rates, it's dampeming and rebound that mainly need addressing. I've got polyurethane motor mount inserts, and thoses are getting replaced with more solid mounts because I've got an industrial size bag of high temp glue sticks I need to put to use.

5 psi grabs 95% of the time, it's right at the threshold. I ran around with a boost controller and a WG w/ a modified spring that ran all of 2psi to find where my traction threshold was, 5 psi is it in first, second could maybe use another psi, but it's a good compromise. That's why my WG is set to 5psi, so if I do ever upgrade to a gear dependant EBC I can boost low enough to keep first in check. Short of running DR's, 2 stage boost was the best option.

If I were going to build a drift car I'd snatch the drive train out of a 2005 Frontier, same motor, RWD config, 5 speed, fat tq curve.

This vid was shot at 8 psi mainly to show how a sequential shift light can aid in the control of wheel spin, mainly just to keep from putting the revlimiter to use, so wheel spin was intentional and no 2 stage boost control was used, I might have pulling onto the main road.

Now if I went out and did that vid again w/ the 2 stage boost control, there would be very little wheel spin, if any at all. Is the suspension complete? No, but it hasn't been ignored either.



http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...h_Project1.jpg

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

You can lay 300-340 whp down in first gear with a Honduh, I've got videos of street tire runs at 13 psi in the CRX vs street tire runs on 24.5's and consistent 7.50-7.60's in the 1/8th. This is a 2000 lb tin can with a short wheelbase - you are dealing with a heavier, stabler vehicle that has a longer wheelbase to ease weight transfer. You should be good for 400.

Like I said, you have suspension problems. You want advice, or to continue making excuses? -2 degrees is a LOT of camber, and that value by itself frankly means nothing since you have to know camber at X suspension travel.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

The suspension is not complete, but I'd be hard pressed to call anything a problem. Given the fact it'll roll them over in first on a stock Spec V says a lot for what has been done.

This car fully loaded weighs about 3200-3300 LBS, that's a far cry from a 2000 lb CRX. So even though it has a longer wheel base it's tossing around a lot more weight, and the contact patch has to hold enough to pull an extra 1300 lbs of weight. So 2000 lbs vs contact patch vs 300 whp and 3300 vs contact patch vs 300 is in a totally different league. So curb weight vs. spring rate, what's comparable, how do you determine what is comparable, and then whats reasonable for a full interior daily driven street car? The rebound and dampening is far from ideal, not a problem persay but being addressed. Camber, no factory adjustmet, not going to run crashbolts, but again will be addressed w/ adjustable suspension. Taking dynamic alignment readings is a little over board for this car, going to Radio Shack and buying a $2 switch to automate an already existing $10 2 stage system is OK for now.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

redesigned/redid the bracket, the one that was on there was too ghetto even for me

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../pipes/GTC.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pipes/GTC1.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pipes/gtc3.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pipes/gtc4.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pipes/gtc5.jpg

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Sweet info

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Your turbo sounds like it has a pipe on it and no BOV.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

HKS SSQ w/o an insert

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Here is my Own HMT 2 Stage Boost Controller.

The one on the RIght a Adjustable Boost Solinoid(Toggle 1) and the 2nd is Just a Open/Closed.(Toggle 2)

So in the cockpit, i have two toggle switches.

Both off = 1 Bar

Toggle one = 1.5 Bar (PUMP GAS LIMIT)
Toggle two = 2 Bars for Race gas/Water Meth

http://www.iformation.co.za/scoupe/2bs.jpg

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

The Finished Product....
http://www.iformation.co.za/scoupe/mbc1.jpg
http://www.iformation.co.za/scoupe/mbc2.jpg

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

looks good, but the hard part is making it automatic and gear dependent.

I could do a 3rd stage but I'm going to wait and address other things first

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

nice info in this thread! thanks for keeping hmt the way i like it. cheap and dirty :-)

-Luke

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

this is pretty freakin sweet ;D

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

what did that air solenoid come off of?

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

It came off a Nissan Altima, egr control solenoid iirc, but Nissan uses Mitsubishi air control valves, so does Chrysler.

Any 1992-1998 car is chock full of air control solenoids, find a u-pull it junk yard and you're set.

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

ok thanks alot

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

Nice man

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

cool, but pics no workie

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

pics back up

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

quick question
how many volts you got going to that thing ?
for some reason i have the impression that its a 5V solenoid

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

I have about 10 of those thing in a box....

pay the shipping and I'll send them out on a first come, first serve...

PM. Me..

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

thinking about doing a 2 stage on a 94 coupe.. would any of this be the same?

Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
 

No, everything changed in 94.