2 stage junk yard boost control
12-02-2007, 11:08 PM
#1
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 141
2 stage junk yard boost control
Total cost in the boost controller so far, less than $20.
Theory:
The top port of the wastegate usually sees atmospheric pressure, so when the manifold is at 0 on the boost guage, the same amont of atmospheric pressure is acting on the bottom of the wastegate diaphragm as the top, at that point there is no pressure differential across the diaphragm. Like when the car is off.
I use a pressure regulator as a boost controller by altering the pressure differential acting on the diaphragm. If my wastegate spring stabilizes at 5 PSI w/o help form the boost controller, for every 1 PSI I regulate to the top port I increase my manifold boost by 1 PSI by altering the pressure differential, so to equal out pressure now it requires atmospheric + 1 psi on the other side of the diaphragm that sees manifold pressure. 2 psi regulated pressure equals atmospheric + 2 + the 5 the spring regulates, for a total of 7PSI.
Now anyone with a boosted spec knows 1st and 2nd gear are almost usless at 10 PSI, that's life. Now at say 5 PSI they're much better. If my spring allows me to run 5 psi, and w/ the boost controller I run 9-10, how can I run 5 then switch to 9-10?
An air solenoid. If I vent the pressure from the line feeding the pressure regulator I'll run 5psi, when I stop venting it'll run 9-10. So if I set up the soleniod tee'd into the signal line to my boost controller to vent when activated, I'll run 5psi. If I use a n open when powered solenoid, I can use a button mounted to my shifter to run run 5 psi whit the button pressed. That means I can leave the line in first gear at 5 PSI, shift to second at 5 PSI, and let off of the button when I shift to 3rd to run 10 PSI the rest of the run.
Nothing new, just putting it out there.
With the circuit open, air, boost or vaccum, will pass freely between 1 & 2.
With the circuit closed, or energized, air will pass freely between 1 & 3.
#4 is a filter to cap off whichever tube you vent.
Port 1 would go to the top port of the wastegate, between the GW and boost controller. Port 2 would go to the boost controller, and port 3 would vent.
when unenergized air will pass from the boost controller to WG like normal. When energized, port 2 would be blocked from the boost controller, and the top port on the WG would open to the atmosphere like there was no boost controller hooked up.
The button was fine but you have to remember to hold it down and fight the car w/ one hand:
Finally got around to making this automatic, first spec ever with Ghetto Traction Control (GTC). 1st and 2nd gear now automatically run 5psi. I plan on wiring in an override switch for what ever occasion would need me to run more than 5 psi in first and second. 3rd and up runs whatever the boost controller is set to.
This is how I was doing it, some times it gets harry trying to fight the spec w/ one hand when it makes whatever the hell it makes in 1st and 2nd at 5psi.
$2
Ghetto Tech custom fab work, need to make the ground wire prettier to be Ghetto Tech Certified.
This is a the selector lever on the transmission, for 1st and 2nd the arm swing as closes the switch and vents the MBC, for the rest of the gears the switch is open and the car runs what ever the MBC is set for
I think I'm going to wire the over boost function into the windshield wiper spray switch because I got rid of the washer fluid jug to relocate my battery. There is no need to ever overboost on anything other than a straight away, using the washer lever I can keep both hands on the wheel when laying on the extra power
Just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap.
If had $300 to drop I'd just get an AVCR or World Sport EBC, but I get bored and like to make stuff work.
Theory:
The top port of the wastegate usually sees atmospheric pressure, so when the manifold is at 0 on the boost guage, the same amont of atmospheric pressure is acting on the bottom of the wastegate diaphragm as the top, at that point there is no pressure differential across the diaphragm. Like when the car is off.
I use a pressure regulator as a boost controller by altering the pressure differential acting on the diaphragm. If my wastegate spring stabilizes at 5 PSI w/o help form the boost controller, for every 1 PSI I regulate to the top port I increase my manifold boost by 1 PSI by altering the pressure differential, so to equal out pressure now it requires atmospheric + 1 psi on the other side of the diaphragm that sees manifold pressure. 2 psi regulated pressure equals atmospheric + 2 + the 5 the spring regulates, for a total of 7PSI.
Now anyone with a boosted spec knows 1st and 2nd gear are almost usless at 10 PSI, that's life. Now at say 5 PSI they're much better. If my spring allows me to run 5 psi, and w/ the boost controller I run 9-10, how can I run 5 then switch to 9-10?
An air solenoid. If I vent the pressure from the line feeding the pressure regulator I'll run 5psi, when I stop venting it'll run 9-10. So if I set up the soleniod tee'd into the signal line to my boost controller to vent when activated, I'll run 5psi. If I use a n open when powered solenoid, I can use a button mounted to my shifter to run run 5 psi whit the button pressed. That means I can leave the line in first gear at 5 PSI, shift to second at 5 PSI, and let off of the button when I shift to 3rd to run 10 PSI the rest of the run.
Nothing new, just putting it out there.
With the circuit open, air, boost or vaccum, will pass freely between 1 & 2.
With the circuit closed, or energized, air will pass freely between 1 & 3.
#4 is a filter to cap off whichever tube you vent.
Port 1 would go to the top port of the wastegate, between the GW and boost controller. Port 2 would go to the boost controller, and port 3 would vent.
when unenergized air will pass from the boost controller to WG like normal. When energized, port 2 would be blocked from the boost controller, and the top port on the WG would open to the atmosphere like there was no boost controller hooked up.
The button was fine but you have to remember to hold it down and fight the car w/ one hand:
Finally got around to making this automatic, first spec ever with Ghetto Traction Control (GTC). 1st and 2nd gear now automatically run 5psi. I plan on wiring in an override switch for what ever occasion would need me to run more than 5 psi in first and second. 3rd and up runs whatever the boost controller is set to.
This is how I was doing it, some times it gets harry trying to fight the spec w/ one hand when it makes whatever the hell it makes in 1st and 2nd at 5psi.
$2
Ghetto Tech custom fab work, need to make the ground wire prettier to be Ghetto Tech Certified.
This is a the selector lever on the transmission, for 1st and 2nd the arm swing as closes the switch and vents the MBC, for the rest of the gears the switch is open and the car runs what ever the MBC is set for
I think I'm going to wire the over boost function into the windshield wiper spray switch because I got rid of the washer fluid jug to relocate my battery. There is no need to ever overboost on anything other than a straight away, using the washer lever I can keep both hands on the wheel when laying on the extra power
Just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap.
If had $300 to drop I'd just get an AVCR or World Sport EBC, but I get bored and like to make stuff work.
12-03-2007, 01:33 AM
#4
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Harford Co. MD
Posts: 1,241
Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
thats a killer write up.
My set up is run 1st and 2nd, and after i put it in third i flip a dash mounted switch, but i have a real dual stage boost controller, might be able to use this for a 3 stage system.
My set up is run 1st and 2nd, and after i put it in third i flip a dash mounted switch, but i have a real dual stage boost controller, might be able to use this for a 3 stage system.
12-03-2007, 07:25 AM
#5
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 141
Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
I got sick of the button, either I'd have to fight the car one handed or I'd forget to use the button all together.
case and point spin spin spin spin, traction, gone. Totally forgot to hold the button.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdHytJpyeMY
Now whenever it's in 1st or 2nd it's good to go.
case and point spin spin spin spin, traction, gone. Totally forgot to hold the button.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdHytJpyeMY
Now whenever it's in 1st or 2nd it's good to go.
12-03-2007, 11:18 AM
#6
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 723
Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
I'm going to do something similar to this, using an ebay solenoid valve + mbc + rare earth magnets + micro reed (magnetic) switches. I'm up to $25 atm, using all new parts. I want to use low boost for 1st/2nd, and will have the magnet on the shift lever, with the switches held where it would be for 1st & second. I like the shift arm idea, but for my stuff I need a longer space between activation - IE longer throw to activate the switch and prevent accidental activation. I don't want low boost in 4th by accident :P
12-04-2007, 03:29 AM
#7
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,147
Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
fucken sweet man
you think there is much restriction in that solenoid?
my mbc is hooked up to vent pressure from the line going to the wg
wondering if it could cause spikes or go above what i set my mbc at
you think there is much restriction in that solenoid?
my mbc is hooked up to vent pressure from the line going to the wg
wondering if it could cause spikes or go above what i set my mbc at
12-04-2007, 07:45 AM
#8
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 141
Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
Originally Posted by Atticus
fucken sweet man
you think there is much restriction in that solenoid?
my mbc is hooked up to vent pressure from the line going to the wg
wondering if it could cause spikes or go above what i set my mbc at
you think there is much restriction in that solenoid?
my mbc is hooked up to vent pressure from the line going to the wg
wondering if it could cause spikes or go above what i set my mbc at
set up like it is, it can't spike, at least not that I've seen
12-04-2007, 08:32 AM
#9
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,069
Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=75418.0
HMT'ers think alike.
HMT'ers think alike.
12-04-2007, 06:18 PM
#10
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 0
Re: 2 stage junk yard boost control
Jeff did somehting like this a few years back i think. his was more of a hold the button down to bleed off some boost while in first and second then once you get traction let it go and then you have full boost.
