well my stock t3 wastegate sucks. just sucks. it spikes to 12 then falls to 7. gay. it might be due me to using t-fittings to leak boost from the vac line going to the wastegate, or who knows what else. anyhow, im too cheap to buy a new wastegate and too lazy to go pick up a boost controller from donald125, gas is expensive. ahem. so im thinking of how i can keep my psi constant and came up with this. only part i bought was the sensor and its been laying in my tool box for a few months, i knew i could use it but never figured out for what, until now. the system works by leaking boost to the wastegate.

parts needed

boost pressure sensor, ebay 18 shipped
switch(optional) $3 autozone (free for me it was in my tool box)
auto relay (optional) (free for me it was in my tool box)
2 or 3 purge valves from a mazda or dsm (free for me somehow they appeared in my pants when i went to the junk, i dont know how they got there )
wire
t- fittings $2

switch controls, the relay, relay controls the pressure switch, pressure switch controls the purge valves. this is a fail safe system, if the relay or pressure switch go out, the valves stay closed, keeping your boost at the stock setting.


ebay pressure switch


the pressure switch is adjsutable with a small hex. you can set it to any boost level between 2-25psi. i set it with a vaccum pump



yes it ghetto. Each valve will raise boost about 2psi. one end is t'ed into the vac line, the other side bleeds into the open.


pressure switch inline with my boost guage. it has three pins, com, normally open, and normally closed. use com and normally closed(nc3)


the more purge valves you have, the more precise your control can be. each valve raises your boost by about 2psi. as soon as it hits your deisred boost level the valves close and your boost goes down, but once it goes below the boost level selected, the valves open again raising it up. this happens so fast you dont even feel it. you just have steady boost all the way to redline. i know u probably dont want to run a bunch of these because theyll clutter your engine bay, but its good for me since im not running crazy boost and im cheap.

cliff notes:

hook this stuff up, and eliminate boost creep/spike and get a boost controller to boot.

im sure you can use these to control a lot of other ---- too. you could probably makse some type of 2 stage boost controlller setup with these valves. mmm sounds like another write up

 

tight shiet

 

All you had to say was relays and I was lost. What's a relay, and what does it do?

 

u did all that to run 12psi?

 

yes and no. i think you missed the point. with this setup, you eliminate boost spike/creep. if your setup is holding steady all the way to red, their is no need for this. and since the switch is adjustable, you got a boost controller. Also, my butt dyno tells me im spooling up faster. i think thats because the wastegate stays closed until these valves close and it sees boost. Thats a bonus.

oh boy. it simple terms, it seperates all your current created from your circuit, from the power switch, so you dont start melting ----. This way you dont run everything" straight to the battery"

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/relay1.htm

 

You could probably make some fast cash putting some of these together. Just toss them inside a little box and toss like a LED light onto it. I like things that light up. That's pretty cool though Rene. You find a new slave yet?

 

Nice, Renr. I'm going external this summer or I'd be trying this out. I've seen this or heard of this being attempted before through a solenoid and a disscussion is the open/close style causing the solenoid to beat itself up/apart. My issue, which seems fine as you haven't said anything yet, is that when it falls JUST BELOW 12psi and it closes and builds right quick I have a feeling that it won't able quick enough to discharge any excess I.E. boost spike, repetitivly (sp?).


JP

 

that is possible, thats why i would recommend running maybe 3-4 of these together or finding a larger solenoid if your runing big boost. maybe one from a nos kit would flow more. the more the purge can flow, the faster the wastegate will react, the more precise the control will be.

 

Interesting idea. Might have to try it out.

 

If relays were important, why would JD tell me to wire my fuel pump direct? Is it like a fuse, or wizzuut?