SRT-4 Intercooler Install in to EG/EJ How to. Enjoy.
Well its been asked many times over again and many answers have been given. Yet, I've never seen a writeup for it.
In short, the answer is YES! You CAN install a Dodge SRT-4 Intercooler in to an EG/EJ Hatch/Coupe whatever other 92-95 civic you have.
This however requires some cutting of the lesser important parts of the bottom frame as well as your bumper. It also really helps if you have Traction bars...See below.
This is what you'll need to cut in to, to make the end tanks fit through to the other side. Dont worry, this metal is cheap and flimsy and doesnt serve a great purpose anyway. it wont effect the structual integrity of your frame.

Using a Sawzall, Grinder or cutting Torch, cut these pieces out on both sides. you'll need to fit the intercooler and make sure the mounting brackets on the end tanks touch the frame. You'll have to trim the area a few times and eventually you'll have it positioned exactly where you want it.
Next, line the sharp edges of the cut with some sort of hard rubber line and zip tie it down. This is so the aluminum intercooler does not start rubbing on the metal, because you'll eventually rub a hole through it and have one hell of a boost leak.


Now its time to mount everything. I used zip ties.



I'm actually going to be using the mounting tabs on the side of the end tanks. If these arent sitting all the way against the frame, use a washer or 2 so you get a nice flush surface. Dont stress the intercooler when bolting it down.


So now you need to trim your bumper. you'll need to trim out quite a bit so that you're able to install it on to the fenders, even with this intercooler sitting so far back there is 2 points where the bumper was pushing in to the intercooler preventing me from mounting it to the fenders. I kept cutting and cutting and now it sits fine.
This is what mine looks like. You results may vary.

Here is the end result. with the bumper mounted. I will clean it up a bit when I put in my mesh to cover up the IC (Mesh may be gay but if you seen my last IC, you'll know that Soft aluminum + Stones = Asking for a leak.



So thats it now have a nice day.
"But wait Mr.Xgen. I did everything you told me and now my end tank hits the radiator!, you are so full of ---- like HT"
Oh ----, yeah Sorry.
Ok on to the next part. The rad relocation.
Using this intercooler you will need to relocate the rad. no if's and but's, its going to happen weather you want to or not so if you're not up to the task then dont bother with this intercooler.
Take out the rad and looking at it from the front move it over so it clears the end tank (about 2")

Next, zip tie it down to your traction bars. if you dont have these then you'll have to come up with something.
I'd bolt a piece of 1" X 12" plate to the stock rad mounts and you can zip tie it to the plate. make sure you use some rubber on the bottom of the rad so the plastic does not vibrate on the metal.


You can use the upper rad hose to hold your rad or you can move the bracket over as well. I'm going to drill and tap a new hole for the screw to thread in to.

Ok so now you're done, everythign is installed and zip tied down. hopefully this intercooler works out for you guys too. I know that the drivers side end tank sits kind of high.
To me this is not a problem as I will have a top mount manifold and turbo anyway.
Well this is it. I hope you enjoyed the writeup and goodluck to you if you attempt this. its a very cheap alternative to the $200+ intercoolers.
cost breakdown.
SRT4 intercooler ~$40+ shipping
Zip ties ~$3
Mechanical Knowlege ~Priceless.
In short, the answer is YES! You CAN install a Dodge SRT-4 Intercooler in to an EG/EJ Hatch/Coupe whatever other 92-95 civic you have.
This however requires some cutting of the lesser important parts of the bottom frame as well as your bumper. It also really helps if you have Traction bars...See below.
This is what you'll need to cut in to, to make the end tanks fit through to the other side. Dont worry, this metal is cheap and flimsy and doesnt serve a great purpose anyway. it wont effect the structual integrity of your frame.

Using a Sawzall, Grinder or cutting Torch, cut these pieces out on both sides. you'll need to fit the intercooler and make sure the mounting brackets on the end tanks touch the frame. You'll have to trim the area a few times and eventually you'll have it positioned exactly where you want it.
Next, line the sharp edges of the cut with some sort of hard rubber line and zip tie it down. This is so the aluminum intercooler does not start rubbing on the metal, because you'll eventually rub a hole through it and have one hell of a boost leak.


Now its time to mount everything. I used zip ties.



I'm actually going to be using the mounting tabs on the side of the end tanks. If these arent sitting all the way against the frame, use a washer or 2 so you get a nice flush surface. Dont stress the intercooler when bolting it down.


So now you need to trim your bumper. you'll need to trim out quite a bit so that you're able to install it on to the fenders, even with this intercooler sitting so far back there is 2 points where the bumper was pushing in to the intercooler preventing me from mounting it to the fenders. I kept cutting and cutting and now it sits fine.
This is what mine looks like. You results may vary.

Here is the end result. with the bumper mounted. I will clean it up a bit when I put in my mesh to cover up the IC (Mesh may be gay but if you seen my last IC, you'll know that Soft aluminum + Stones = Asking for a leak.



So thats it now have a nice day.
"But wait Mr.Xgen. I did everything you told me and now my end tank hits the radiator!, you are so full of ---- like HT"
Oh ----, yeah Sorry.
Ok on to the next part. The rad relocation.
Using this intercooler you will need to relocate the rad. no if's and but's, its going to happen weather you want to or not so if you're not up to the task then dont bother with this intercooler.
Take out the rad and looking at it from the front move it over so it clears the end tank (about 2")

Next, zip tie it down to your traction bars. if you dont have these then you'll have to come up with something.
I'd bolt a piece of 1" X 12" plate to the stock rad mounts and you can zip tie it to the plate. make sure you use some rubber on the bottom of the rad so the plastic does not vibrate on the metal.


You can use the upper rad hose to hold your rad or you can move the bracket over as well. I'm going to drill and tap a new hole for the screw to thread in to.

Ok so now you're done, everythign is installed and zip tied down. hopefully this intercooler works out for you guys too. I know that the drivers side end tank sits kind of high.
To me this is not a problem as I will have a top mount manifold and turbo anyway.
Well this is it. I hope you enjoyed the writeup and goodluck to you if you attempt this. its a very cheap alternative to the $200+ intercoolers.
cost breakdown.
SRT4 intercooler ~$40+ shipping
Zip ties ~$3
Mechanical Knowlege ~Priceless.
Originally Posted by Xgenturbo
"But wait Mr.Xgen. I did everythign you told me and now my end tank hits the radiator!, you are so full of ---- like HT"
I so imagined a little 10 kid. like in the tootsie pop commercials.
Originally Posted by AJxr
got measurements on that intercooler? thinking of putting one in my crx.
Originally Posted by d-man
good writeup Martin! Lookin good. I'm gettin one off Ebay too. Hopefully we can get it installed within the next little bit and get this gay SMIC off.
This was kind of a last minute thing because I realized shortly after doing this that there is no writeups, and I've searched all over. So I took pictures when I had everything cut and measured up already.


