Mani Fresh?
#22
Re: Mani Fresh?
I'm with hotrex.
I'm not a welder... I suck compared to guys like hotrex. But I've done enough cast iron + flux-core ebay welder to know it works OK for what he wants to do.
My grandfather is really into those old hit & miss engines. One of them he uses to pull a large *** saw-mill. (The blade is like 7/16" thick & about 4' tall). It's driven by a huge belt that runs off one of the flywheels that weighs about 50-75lbs. That is turned on the crankshaft by a key about 3/4-1" thick, slightly taller than that & maybe 5" inches long that fits into a large notch. Needless to say the notch broke flush off the crankshaft decades ago & he just JB welds it back on every time it breaks. It makes it a few uses - so I guess ya can't fault him much.
That ----... You're talking some 1905 (that's the year stamped on it) pig iron. Real low quality, seems *very* hard to weld. I turned my little ebay 130amp fluxcore welder all the way up & went crazy on it. Obviously, the penetration compared to the load & area is a total joke. I'm not going to deny it. (I might add I was using some .35 Lincoln wire. I don't remember if it was NR-202, or NR-211-MP, but whatever it was, it was a general mild-steel wire. It had problems on the old pig-iron. I'm sure something else would have worked better - as co2 & twice the power hah!)
Anywho. 7 true horsepower @ 480rpm.
(7 true horsepower = 92 brake horsepower @ 480 rpm = 1006 lb-ft of torque @ 480rpm!)
Bitch still hasn't moved after little more than a year.
OK so why did I just ramble on? Because:
1) even tho that's got to be the worst application of a cheap *** welder, on the lowest quality iron of all time - that doesn't change the fact that the notch & key is still on there. It has no heat on it - but there is a pretty damn good amount of force on it anytime a load, hits it! A hell of a lot more than his manifold would have.
2) 1000+ lb-ft off a single cylinder, rpm slower than most i4's will idle!? hahahahaha I thought yall would get a kick out of that.. Redline @ 550!
hotrex is right. It sucks & anyone attempting it in a professional job, or a welding class should be shot.
But in the real world, it works fine.
I'm not a welder... I suck compared to guys like hotrex. But I've done enough cast iron + flux-core ebay welder to know it works OK for what he wants to do.
My grandfather is really into those old hit & miss engines. One of them he uses to pull a large *** saw-mill. (The blade is like 7/16" thick & about 4' tall). It's driven by a huge belt that runs off one of the flywheels that weighs about 50-75lbs. That is turned on the crankshaft by a key about 3/4-1" thick, slightly taller than that & maybe 5" inches long that fits into a large notch. Needless to say the notch broke flush off the crankshaft decades ago & he just JB welds it back on every time it breaks. It makes it a few uses - so I guess ya can't fault him much.
That ----... You're talking some 1905 (that's the year stamped on it) pig iron. Real low quality, seems *very* hard to weld. I turned my little ebay 130amp fluxcore welder all the way up & went crazy on it. Obviously, the penetration compared to the load & area is a total joke. I'm not going to deny it. (I might add I was using some .35 Lincoln wire. I don't remember if it was NR-202, or NR-211-MP, but whatever it was, it was a general mild-steel wire. It had problems on the old pig-iron. I'm sure something else would have worked better - as co2 & twice the power hah!)
Anywho. 7 true horsepower @ 480rpm.
(7 true horsepower = 92 brake horsepower @ 480 rpm = 1006 lb-ft of torque @ 480rpm!)
Bitch still hasn't moved after little more than a year.
OK so why did I just ramble on? Because:
1) even tho that's got to be the worst application of a cheap *** welder, on the lowest quality iron of all time - that doesn't change the fact that the notch & key is still on there. It has no heat on it - but there is a pretty damn good amount of force on it anytime a load, hits it! A hell of a lot more than his manifold would have.
2) 1000+ lb-ft off a single cylinder, rpm slower than most i4's will idle!? hahahahaha I thought yall would get a kick out of that.. Redline @ 550!
hotrex is right. It sucks & anyone attempting it in a professional job, or a welding class should be shot.
But in the real world, it works fine.
#23
Re: Mani Fresh?
Originally Posted by BUCKETHEAD
dude trash the mig, i just went a bought a spool of aluminum and it binds and jams in the feeder cuz the wire is to soft.you get it to feed and get a couple of beeds (if you can call mig welds that) and it jams again. cant weld aluminum for ---- and when you weld steel it still looks like complete crap. im saving for a smiley combo
.hopefully its not another piece of ----, but consideriing the price it probly is
.hopefully its not another piece of ----, but consideriing the price it probly is
Also I might be way off, but I thought turbine housing, some manifolds, and the stock ford t3 wastegate housing where cast steel, not cast iron.
I have never had any problems welding cast steel. Cast iron on the other hand almost always seems to just break free almost as soon as the weld cools.
But like I said, I really don't know ----. Just what I thought.
Later
Randy
#25
Re: Mani Fresh?
Originally Posted by hcivic
Originally Posted by CSaddict
Ok turn the heat up all the way and slow the wire feed down. Then go slowly and steady. It should be fine.
#28
Re: Mani Fresh?
all this talk about cast cannot be welded properly..... whether that's true or not about cast Iron I don't know..... but what exhaust housings and such are made out of I was told is CAST STEEL... that's why i was 'successfully' able to weld a dodge cast down pipe to 2.5 inch charge piping to make an exhaust... If I get the chance I'll pull it off the car and take a pic.
#29
Re: Mani Fresh?
You can't turbocharge a Honda. :1
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