FooK

stock z6, 14b setup.

i was thinking about pulling it back to like 19* at the top, which is like .85* per lb. Should I go a little further since I'm still basing it out? Aim for 18* at the top or something? I'm gonna be running 10psi all said and done.

Just thought I'd get the thoughts of the more experienced first.

scroll way down for the bin and the datalog.

Chris Harris

What do you mean by "*18 at the top or something" ?

FooK

18* (*=degrees) timing at the top (higher rpm range in full boost WOT (Panty ripper))

bear with me im still a noob with this.

hey if by chance you can recommend a % of fuel increase if im hitting pretty steady 13:1 flat from about 4000rpm and up at 7psi, please do.

WHAT IVE DONE SO FAR

so far i have added about 4% fuel from 2psi to 11.2 psi on the map across the entire rpm range, and set the boost retard multiplier to .8 degrees per lb, which puts it at 19 degrees at 11.2psi, and im only shooting for a 10psi tune. am i on the right sort of track, or am i way off?

ive been reading from this http://home.mn.rr.com/keebler65/honda/tuning.html

leed

Id rock 19* up top on 10psi for a base for sure.
AIM me your CROME map nukka

projekteg

i usually don't pull more than .75° up top until i go over about 11psi., that's just me though here's how i do mine.

0-2psi = stock timing
3-4psi = -.25°
5-7psi = -.50°
8-11psi = -.75°
12-14psi= -.90°

FooK

thanks guys, im gonna test out the new map today

Chris Harris

(last column vac value) + ( (0.565)*(Boost Column Heading)*(Boost %) )

This is what i use for OBD0, I dont know how well it will work for fuel values that arent in MS (millisecond) pulse widths.

Give it a shot and see if the numbers you come out with make sense.

projekteg

dude, if you're running close to a whole point lean, 4% of fuel isn't ----. add about 12% and see where that puts you. start with big numbers to get you in the general area of where you need to be, then start adding/pulling the little ones and two's. a very generic rule of thumb is that 10% fuel is approx. 1 whole a/f point with 450's.

93turbo16

Personally I would stay below 20 degrees at 10psi on a d-series and something around 20 on a B-series. But really to be safe, I always do 1 degree step retard on d-series and like .85 on B series. No real reason to try to make it perfect right away.

Bone1

NOOBIE question about the timing you are refering to...........

For example by 20 degrees timing, do you mean TOTAL tming (dizzy + ECU) or just what the ECU is adding + intial at dizzy??

ie 12 dizzy + 8 ecu = 20 total (sounds right)
or 12 dizzy + 20 ecu = 32 total (KABOOM?)