Damn that sucks.

I really wish we could've gotten tuned on the dyno.. I bet you would have been making mad power.

 

k this isnt making sence: i reset my ECU...get 14's at idle...after a while it will throw a code 1 and it will idle at like 15-17's (idle still doesnt stay in one spot)? shouldnt it be richer with a code 1?? (btw my stock O2 isnt plugged in...)

 

I'm not sure.. I'm not one of those that try to initiate open loop by disconnecting my O2.

Why do you have ti unplugged anyway? Try not to tune during closed loop?

 

well i only hve one usable O2 bung... how do i make the ECU read off the PLX O2 sensor?

 

You use the thin grey wire coming off the WB controller. Splice in that 1uf cap (used as a noise reducer) and wire it to your O2 sensor input on the ECU.

Wa-la. All done.

 

Aaaah, fooling the ecu into thinking the wideband is still a narrowband O2.

 

k, wouldnt that lower the signal?
like this right?

[WB Controler]====--U--===[ECU]

 

Right-on, chief.

 

C'mon Jason, you know better :P

On the dyno vid watch the A/F display during one of Beaus runs, that ---- was all over the place.
Basically, the beginning of the run and the end are wrong. From about 4k-6k it was correct, so I just used the same inj. M/S for the top end, just leaned it a bit for the mad breathing power of the LS.

I datalogged all my runs and then graphed the PLX output vs Dyno WB02 output and the results were interesting. I dont have the graph on this computer, but Dyno in-pipe O2's lag about 300-400rpm, but for the most part was on par.

 

I have the innovative one setting in my room at home.... so you know where my preference is.

In all honestly I dont think you can beat all of the things it can do for its price... yes its bulky but who needs a wideband to be on all the time...you really only need it as a tuning tool.

I have not used it yet but as soon as this damn snow goes away.... I cant wait to test it out and start tuning with it.