RENR

yes you need fuel duh, but runing rich doesnt necesarily cause detonation. as far as the timing maps go, do that for me and prove me wrong. im not here to argue with you. im just want to let people know that they dont have to worry about timing when their only boosting 6-7psi. the afc does its job and it does it well.

stevecivic

I have a delsol with a b18c1 and a super 60 T3 using the vafc. I have been told yes and no about running 5-6 psi. I know that the c1's have high comp and i dont want to detonate my motor. I was planing on turning the timing back a few degrees. Will that be ok? How much boost can i run on a gsr motor w/stock internals using a dsm's and a Vafc?
Thanks
Steve

thermal

I hve been running stock timing ever since I had my hack set-up. I started at 6 psi boost with no problems. It felt so good that I increased it to 10 psi at one point. It worked with no MIL. 10 psi kind of scared me. I'm back to 8 psi with no problems except a stupid code13 (barometric pressure) every now and then. It does not affect the performance tho, even with that code. I've talked to a lot of people about the hack. It seemed like most people with OBD2 suffers from this code 13 sometimes.

RENR

10psi is fun!

2000psi

Things that will keep things safer using the AFC hack:
-INTERCOOLER
-Properly gapped stock plugs or one step colder
-High quality gas
-properly sized turbo
-retard timing all the way, then gradually advance it back to stock or as far as you can go without hearing detonation
-WIDEBAND 02 sensor, not that autometer crap
-start off rich then lean it out till it runs well, keeping an eye on the wideband and not going past 12.5/1 a/f ratio
- Know your car, drive with the radio off and no one else in the car when tuning
- spend enough time tuning and don't get crazy with the boost ( past 10psi on your average turbo, this doesn't mean you can run 10psi on a T4)
-Don't be at full boost more than 15 seconds
- make sure your car is up to par before adding a turbo (all maintenance)
- check that your cooling system is ready for the extra heat
- Give a thumbs up to the GT you just blew by and don't flash your hazards when you fly by that cobra after the race is already over.

JD

Thanks a million for saying have the right sized turbo for engine. I have a f22a and I was rolling a mitsu tdo4 and I had a lot of detonation at full throttle when it hit around 6 psi then it would go away when I hit 10 psi. Then when I put the tdo5 (14b) in the detonation was totally gone and I didnt have a detonation problem again. You definetly have to get the right turbo for your engine. In the world of turbos SIZE DOES MATTER!!!

Tom-Guy

When you understand that Honda maps are in MAP by RPM format for the range of ~300 mBar to ~1000 mBar, and then take those stock NA maps and stretch them via a MAP voltage cut to cover ~300 mBar to 1600+ mBar, well, ---- has a strange way of getting fucked. Most people pick stuff like this up better visually, so try graphing it out on paper.... or look at Ghettodyne 2.2 NA versus Ghettodyne 2.2 Boost maps; envision the NA headings on the Boost column headings (that's what I did with Ghettodyne 1.01 for the PM6 MAPhack basemap - original PR4 MAPhack was all done by hand calculation with a hex editor).

You want real numbers? PGMFI.org is covered up with them... if you notice my link to the MAPhack thread on PGMFI, none of the people who know wtf is going on with speed density EFI contradicted me. I don't mean to shove that in your face in a rude manner, but if you went all the way through this thread without forming a tenative grasp of the subject then you need to be given good reason to rethink your current stance.

Preignition != detonation. Preignition is caused by a hot spot in the combustion chamber which ignites the AF mixture, which results in "detonation" when the preignited flame front smacks into the spark plug ignited flame front. Actual detonation is caused by too much heat, charge density, and/or TDC dwell time for a given setup. The knock threshold of the fuel is exceeded by combustion chamber conditions causing it to explode instead of burn.

Chacko

I don't know if this was already mentioned in this thread or not. But another problem with the Hondas and boost is simply that unless your routing your blow off air back into the charge piping before the turbo, youre MAP sensor has told the ECU to expect X amount of pressure in front of the T-body but this pressure is suddenly gone.

Anyone else have those really f*d up idles where the meter bounces around? Well hey this is most likely your culprit.

Its true that proper tuning can prevent this, and any ECU thats designed to know that when you hit vacuum in the engine after going into boost, can ignore the old MAP reading.

Anyways, this is just an idea of what may be causing those erratic idles and another reason why the AFC hack isn't the best way to go necessarily.

redteg87

I, also, am curious about running the MAP sensor into the TPS port on the s-afc. Sounds like a better way of tuning. Has anyone attempted this and what results did you find?

Donald125

can i ask why?...do u mean it only WHILE you are tuning or under any condition?