Guy-Fast

Tried 2 dist's from krargen on customers cars both failed. You have better luck buying a new ignitor or going to the jyard/ebay and buying a used dist.

abakedpotato

i looked back through paypal and i got the distributor for a whopping $120 shipped claiming to be a new TD-42U unit back in July of 2006. i'm going to email him to see about a warranty but not holding out much hope.

so the honda dealership just called me. ended up changing the ignitor and coil (at least i'm fairly certain both). he said both had more than usual amounts of green corrosion. not super heavy just a lot more than should be there. said they drove it over 30 miles and no stall. hopefully it's good now. their overall thought process was this: the cap wasn't airtight and allowed moisture into the distributor which overtime corroded. it got to the point where the heat and corrosion affected the resistence of the system and that's why it crashed. i'm still trying to figure out why they went with the main relay to begin with and were so sure of it. especially if they checked the distributor and coil and they were ok then. he was also saying a coolant hose was real close and touching the distributor which also didn't help. all that was stock on the motor swap so i'm not sure what he's talking about there.

overall, he's only charging me 2 hours of labor for both fixes and parts. a total cost of about $550 which for this long at the shop is quite amazing. i think the service manager feels pretty ashamed his guys had this hard of a time and i picked up the car only to break down 2 miles later.

Tom-Guy

If that 550 includes parts, that's a pretty damn good deal. Pricey to the average HMTer, but fair as shops go since you got a lot of OE parts.

abakedpotato

ya that's all said and done. 2 hours to diagnose and change the main relay was like $270. the second round they changed the wires, rotor, cap, ignitor, and coil for $280 which he said was parts. either the ignitor or coil was one they use to test in the shop and they just gave that to me so the cost isn't for both new. at least that's an oem part. from what it sounds like, they spent the last two days handing it off to people to try so there had to be a bunch of hours in there. not sure how many quality ones though.

more money than i want to spend on it now. just trying to pay off $50k in school loans and keep the car a few more years till then. i may or may not make it though.

thanks for all the help JD. i'll let you know how it goes.

abakedpotato

i'm hesitant to say this but so far so good. no issues experienced as of yet.

Tom-Guy

Glad to hear that... if the problem was pretty persistant, going this long without a problem means it's fixed.

MAJORAHOLE

so to sum it up it was the coil, or the the ignitor?

reactone

This is funny because I had virtually the same problem at the track last week. While idling in the staging lanes, it would just cut out, sometimes throwing a code 15, sometimes not. It even cut out after my burn out, and I couldn't get it started that time, which sucks because I sat through 100+ cars for nothing..Letting it sit for a small bit of time remedied the problem. I jiggled the wires and the problem went away. I'll keep this thread in mind if the problem persists.