CEL on p28 ecu (code 16) after 450cc upgrade
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1.5 BAR
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,495
Re:CEL on p28 ecu (code 16) after 450cc upgrade
I actually have a 97 del sol 
Using the wiring conversion harness from Hasport...
This would make sense, because we killed all the codes now except a 21 on the obd1 ecu. The obd2 is only complaining about the secondary oxygen sensor.
What you say is completely logical, but I have not been successful in finding any other resources on this
I hope to hear from you soon BTW, the car is now at least driveable!
Using the wiring conversion harness from Hasport...
This would make sense, because we killed all the codes now except a 21 on the obd1 ecu. The obd2 is only complaining about the secondary oxygen sensor.
What you say is completely logical, but I have not been successful in finding any other resources on this
I hope to hear from you soon
BTW, the car is now at least driveable!
Thread Starter
1.5 BAR
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,495
Re:CEL on p28 ecu (code 16) after 450cc upgrade
well i found the web board you were talking about read through some of the stuff. I don't have an OBD2B car so that wasn't the problem. Onyx thinks he may have had a bad wire somewhere in the car from the solenoid -> but we bridged the connection on the ECU from the pressure switch to the solenoid and now VTEC is working and no more CELs (at least while in neutral haven't test drove yet, got oil leaks to fix).
0.0 BAR
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re:CEL on p28 ecu (code 16) after 450cc upgrade
Uh, dude... the engine is completely broken in after 20 minutes.
If the crank and bearings have been properly clearanced, there is no friction there as the crank floats on a bed of oil. The valves finish seating themselves within the first minute of hammering against the valve seats.
The only thing left to break in are your rings... is the 5-10 ft/lbs of force they exert against the cylinder wall going to seat them? No. You need a couple thousand psi of combustion pressure to do that properly - to really shove the ring out against the cylinder wall and completely seat it on all 360 degrees of it's perimeter. You get that by raising complete and total hell the instant it has reached operating temp, if you haven't heard or seen evidence of any engine problems. If you sissy around for a few hundred, the cylinder wall crosshatches glaze and the rings incompletely seal.
If the crank and bearings have been properly clearanced, there is no friction there as the crank floats on a bed of oil. The valves finish seating themselves within the first minute of hammering against the valve seats.
The only thing left to break in are your rings... is the 5-10 ft/lbs of force they exert against the cylinder wall going to seat them? No. You need a couple thousand psi of combustion pressure to do that properly - to really shove the ring out against the cylinder wall and completely seat it on all 360 degrees of it's perimeter. You get that by raising complete and total hell the instant it has reached operating temp, if you haven't heard or seen evidence of any engine problems. If you sissy around for a few hundred, the cylinder wall crosshatches glaze and the rings incompletely seal.
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