on an aluminum head. I could just throw specific sized washers under the seats right? or is that what it is and companys get rich on washers

 

yup. washers ftw. just don't stack so many that your springs bind under full compression

 

awesome. no I took the spring to like 100psi and they didn't bind. installed there only at 22-26psi.

 

compressed spring tension has nothing to do with the cam/rocker combo youre running compressing the spring coils into themselves. i don't see why it would, if youre using like 2mm or less of washers

 

my dad had a buddy of his back in the late 60s put washers under his valve springs on his chevy small block. dad said that sucker reved like 2k higher before it floated the valves. ended up dropping a valve about a week after he did that and screwed a lot of stuff up in his motor. i'd be weary of that, but it has been done and yes you will see a difference. and it might mess things up in the long run too. like some one said, don't use so much that the valve binds. thats a sure way to break something off the bat.

 

or break the mushroom off the stem

 

cloud/guest, please stop.

Ask the man.

You could also use ISKY locators.

Now, what pressure specs does your cam require at base and open? Did your cam even include that info. Seeing how's it's not an American V8 I highly doubt it.

 

why the hell would you float the valve when you use shims to compensate for lower installed spring pressure so you don't float valves? or did he do it on a stock motor or a motor with cam?

 

i guess because every mod has its effectiveness. it helped with the valve float but didn't prevent it from happening. i guess it depends on how much you shim them.

i doubt pops remembers the setup on the dude's chevy, but whatever.

 

You can also clamp your return line to get more fuel pressure. And remove the head gasket to get a bump in compression. All of which are stupid ideas.