pretty happy.
3.0 BAR
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,036
Re: pretty happy.
B18b: Forged GSR Internals. P72 Head: Type R cams/valves - Shaved. Skunk2 intake mani. B&M: Staging brake. Water/Meth. PTE: 780cc injectors. HX-35. XS-Power mani. Racing Type2 BOV. Bogarts: 13x8 & skinnies.
ETA: slo
sweet setup
ETA: slo
sweet setup
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: pretty happy.
Originally Posted by ososlohatch
B18b: Forged GSR Internals. P72 Head: Type R cams/valves - Shaved. Skunk2 intake mani. B&M: Staging brake. Water/Meth. PTE: 780cc injectors. HX-35. XS-Power mani. Racing Type2 BOV. Bogarts: 13x8 & skinnies.
ETA: slo
sweet setup
ETA: slo
sweet setup
That needs to be updated sometime.. I'm running Arias 83mm 9.4:1 Pistons (1.9L), the head just got ported, the type r valves and gsr springs are being replaced with crower's pro springs, +1mm valves, and Ti rets (as soon as I get some price quotes back), I want to see about getting a new cam i've heard type-r has a lot of overlap but preforms well... but it would still be nice to sell it to some JDM rice ****** and get a turbo specific cam. The 780s have been replaced w/ 950ccs. It still has some more ---- to do, ie. roll cage, CVs, and a some tranny work (b16 cable) making 1st gear a bit taller and adding an OBX lsd. Still some money left to put into it but being in Iraq and makin some tax free bones has its obvious advantages.
0.0 BAR
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: pretty happy.
Originally Posted by fysh
I want to see about getting a new cam i've heard type-r has a lot of overlap but preforms well... but it would still be nice to sell it to some JDM rice ****** and get a turbo specific cam.
Frankly, unless you want to spin the engine to the moon and watch the cams/engine consume itself, stick with the ITR cams. Get some moderately stiffer springs and keep the revs conservative.
Avoid two-piece valves (don't listen to Brian Crower's bullshit about all valves being two-piece since the hardened tip on the stem is friction welded seperately, when I or anyone else on the planet says two-piece we mean the head is welded to a different shaft, which is prone to breakage when thermally cycled).
Avoid Supertech valves. Great NA pieces, but they way the thin the stem right before the valve head leads to longevity problems similar to two-piece valves.
Oh, yeah, PS - you're a ----- for not going 85mm. :P
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Posts: n/a
Re: pretty happy.
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Most of those suck as they are designed off old school low-revving V8 theory, or even worse blower cam theory. Go with a big NA cam and you'll be happy.
Frankly, unless you want to spin the engine to the moon and watch the cams/engine consume itself, stick with the ITR cams. Get some moderately stiffer springs and keep the revs conservative.
Avoid two-piece valves (don't listen to Brian Crower's bullshit about all valves being two-piece since the hardened tip on the stem is friction welded seperately, when I or anyone else on the planet says two-piece we mean the head is welded to a different shaft, which is prone to breakage when thermally cycled).
Avoid Supertech valves. Great NA pieces, but they way the thin the stem right before the valve head leads to longevity problems similar to two-piece valves.
Oh, yeah, PS - you're a ----- for not going 85mm. :P
Frankly, unless you want to spin the engine to the moon and watch the cams/engine consume itself, stick with the ITR cams. Get some moderately stiffer springs and keep the revs conservative.
Avoid two-piece valves (don't listen to Brian Crower's bullshit about all valves being two-piece since the hardened tip on the stem is friction welded seperately, when I or anyone else on the planet says two-piece we mean the head is welded to a different shaft, which is prone to breakage when thermally cycled).
Avoid Supertech valves. Great NA pieces, but they way the thin the stem right before the valve head leads to longevity problems similar to two-piece valves.
Oh, yeah, PS - you're a ----- for not going 85mm. :P
I agree.. I am a -----. I bought 81mm MIDs after my motor blew because I had a set of Wiseco pistons (81.5) that I ASSumed were still good. After hot tanking them and inspecting them closer, I noticed pitting on the ring seats (dumb mistake). So I just had the MIDs bored out as far as they'd go. Besides, there IS a replacement for displacement, more boost, thick cyl walls, and a little bit of jew magic.
0.0 BAR
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: pretty happy.
From the BC website:
Reread my bit about two-piece valves, I dunno any other way to explain them. Look at a clean stock valves and you'll see what I mean.
You won't need to rev super high since HX35 have good spool on near-2 liters. 8500 is super safe, given the parts you have I wouldn't worry about 9000. Past that... well, the stresses involved are exponential, so 100 rpms manifests as a whole lot more. Frankly, you should have 10-15 psi by 4500 rpms and if you can't drive a 4000 rpm powerband that an 8500 rpm revlimit would give you then spinning higher isn't going to improve the situation.
Brian Crower grew up at Crower Cams & Equipment Company, where he headed up the Crower Sport Compact division since its inception. With Crower Cams heavily focused on the V8 market, Brian saw an opportunity to truly support the needs of the Sport Compact community. With the support of his family, Brian Crower Inc. was formed to deliver the highest quality internal engine components for a variety of popular engine platforms.
You won't need to rev super high since HX35 have good spool on near-2 liters. 8500 is super safe, given the parts you have I wouldn't worry about 9000. Past that... well, the stresses involved are exponential, so 100 rpms manifests as a whole lot more. Frankly, you should have 10-15 psi by 4500 rpms and if you can't drive a 4000 rpm powerband that an 8500 rpm revlimit would give you then spinning higher isn't going to improve the situation.
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