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Re: pretty happy.

B18b: Forged GSR Internals. P72 Head: Type R cams/valves - Shaved. Skunk2 intake mani. B&M: Staging brake. Water/Meth. PTE: 780cc injectors. HX-35. XS-Power mani. Racing Type2 BOV. Bogarts: 13x8 & skinnies.
ETA: slo
sweet setup

Re: pretty happy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ososlohatch

thank you. sweet plants.

That needs to be updated sometime.. I'm running Arias 83mm 9.4:1 Pistons (1.9L), the head just got ported, the type r valves and gsr springs are being replaced with crower's pro springs, +1mm valves, and Ti rets (as soon as I get some price quotes back), I want to see about getting a new cam i've heard type-r has a lot of overlap but preforms well... but it would still be nice to sell it to some JDM rice faggot and get a turbo specific cam. The 780s have been replaced w/ 950ccs. It still has some more ---- to do, ie. roll cage, CVs, and a some tranny work (b16 cable) making 1st gear a bit taller and adding an OBX lsd. Still some money left to put into it but being in Iraq and makin some tax free bones has its obvious advantages.

Re: pretty happy.

looks really nice.. cant wait to pull my ---- out and start the process

Re: pretty happy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fysh

I want to see about getting a new cam i've heard type-r has a lot of overlap but preforms well... but it would still be nice to sell it to some JDM rice faggot and get a turbo specific cam.

Most of those suck as they are designed off old school low-revving V8 theory, or even worse blower cam theory. Go with a big NA cam and you'll be happy.

Frankly, unless you want to spin the engine to the moon and watch the cams/engine consume itself, stick with the ITR cams. Get some moderately stiffer springs and keep the revs conservative.

Avoid two-piece valves (don't listen to Brian Crower's bullshit about all valves being two-piece since the hardened tip on the stem is friction welded seperately, when I or anyone else on the planet says two-piece we mean the head is welded to a different shaft, which is prone to breakage when thermally cycled).

Avoid Supertech valves. Great NA pieces, but they way the thin the stem right before the valve head leads to longevity problems similar to two-piece valves.

Oh, yeah, PS - you're a ----- for not going 85mm. :P

Re: pretty happy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joseph Davis

As always, solid info JD. Your uncontrollable knowledgabilities are daunting. Just a couple questions, I'm trying to get high revs to take advantage of my short gearing. ITR still the way to go? The springs are being replaced as stated before, any advice on reading spring rates? My fine tuned deduction skills concluded that the bigger the numbers, the higher it'll rev. As far as 2 piece valves, I guess I'm not following. Are Brian Crower 2 piece? And from my understanding Crower and Brian Crower are not the same company. What brand is not said '2 piece'? I need them to be available in +1mm to take advantage of the headwork.

I agree.. I am a -----. I bought 81mm MIDs after my motor blew because I had a set of Wiseco pistons (81.5) that I ASSumed were still good. After hot tanking them and inspecting them closer, I noticed pitting on the ring seats (dumb mistake). So I just had the MIDs bored out as far as they'd go. Besides, there IS a replacement for displacement, more boost, thick cyl walls, and a little bit of jew magic. :D

Re: pretty happy.

From the BC website:

Quote:

Brian Crower grew up at Crower Cams & Equipment Company, where he headed up the Crower Sport Compact division since its inception. With Crower Cams heavily focused on the V8 market, Brian saw an opportunity to truly support the needs of the Sport Compact community. With the support of his family, Brian Crower Inc. was formed to deliver the highest quality internal engine components for a variety of popular engine platforms.

Reread my bit about two-piece valves, I dunno any other way to explain them. Look at a clean stock valves and you'll see what I mean.

You won't need to rev super high since HX35 have good spool on near-2 liters. 8500 is super safe, given the parts you have I wouldn't worry about 9000. Past that... well, the stresses involved are exponential, so 100 rpms manifests as a whole lot more. Frankly, you should have 10-15 psi by 4500 rpms and if you can't drive a 4000 rpm powerband that an 8500 rpm revlimit would give you then spinning higher isn't going to improve the situation. ;)

Re: pretty happy.

You clay that motor with those oversized valves. Dont want to hot vtechhhhh and boooom