need gasket material for an intake and exhaust mani since my head ports will no longer support a shaved stock gasket.

im getting this for the intake side and going to cut my own.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

also getting the exhaust side while i'm at it. question is whats the difference? the steel/carbon is almost 3x expensive as the acrylic. am i going to even be able to cut the steal/graphite core by hand? is there a difference?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

suggestions?

 

permex and lots of it.

 

For the exhaust gasket, i dont know why they say you can use acrylic. If it use truly arcylic it will melt and ooze out at roughly 266degF.

You should be able to cut the graphite/steel. Im not sure what would be the best way. Maybe some sheet metal shears or even a few razor blades, or perhaps a bandsaw. Try a few things see what works best.

 

you can get it cheaper on ebay..
let me know how it works out for ya

 

Run no gaskets on the exhaust side. Short of a proper MLS unit like the Honduh ones a gasket will just fail prematurely.

Run a belt sander across your manifold head flange to make sure it's flat, and torque it from the center out so it doesn't bow up during installation. You'll be fine.

 

$1,000 says that leaks like the Titanic.

 

$1,000 says I've been turboing cars a decade before you ever got your learner's permit, and that I know a thing or two.

Thanks for playing.

 

using a belt sander could just be agrevatiing a leak. not knowing if its truely flat and not knowing how much youre grinding down could be bad.

 

$2,000 says you don't get your manifolds from where he (and I) gets his manifolds and you also don't realize that his par factor > your par factor.

 

The titanic didn't leak until it hit an iceberg dipshit. I agree with JD partially. I would just work with the stock MLS gasket and maybe some copper spray. Or make it out of copper flashing. The exhaust flange should flex, meaning if torqued properly, it Should seal pretty well against a clean surface.