has any one had good experiences with filling the block 1 inch and using a block guard. the local machine shop has recommend that thats what i should do but im not sure. is this a good ideal. it is a daily driver too.

 

I've never heard anything about using block filler for a Honda engine. It seems like it would cut down on liner vibration, but I can't even speculate if it has any effect on cooling. You get to guinnea pig it.

You need to look into a block filler for aluminum engines... I vaguely recall something to the effect that the regular block filler has the coefficient of expansion that iron does. That may not be valid, or true, cause I don't really know this subject and am just repeating some stuff I "heard" a long time ago.

 

I was gonna get my block sleeved by golden eagle, its like 800 for sleeves and shipping, but im up for a more homemade version. I dont think it would be as strong as a sleeve block though and cooling is always an issue because mines a daily driver too.

 

TurboRex bob kennedy filled his 1g crx boosted engine with some devcon epoxy, then drilled holes for cooling jackets,

but the entire sleeve isnt filled to the top, he put salt filled half way then drilled the holes, and flushed the salt out, pretty good idea!

Jeff

 

Salt to space out the epoxy... ninja. Now that is some serious creativity.

Any clue on the epoxy's properties, or how long it has held together?

 

that sounds pretty interesting. i talked to the machine shop today and they said i shouldnt have any problems with coolant since they was only gonna fill it an 1inch from the bottom. he said most of the heat produced comes from the top of the stroke

 

all the load on the cylinder sleeves is about 2 inchs from the top, having the support at the bottom isnt going to do much.

http://www.devcon.com

 

a few pics



those are bob kennedy's pics

 

that's nice lookin'...i wonder if the epoxy sweld and messed up the bore/hone on it....

 

indeed, if I was to fill the block, this is how I would do it,

fill the epoxy in the block (salt half way up)

install the main girdle/main caps and torque to spec

install the head and torque the head down to spec

(with both of this installed as the epoxy dries, the sleeves are torqued into place, so it wont shift at all)

let the epoxy dry, then remove the head

drill the holes for coolant passages.

get the cylinders rebored w/ new pistons and deck the block.

this way everything will be uniform.

Jeff