fill the block? block guard? which one????
03-20-2003, 10:04 PM
#1
0.0 BAR
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 30
fill the block? block guard? which one????
has any one had good experiences with filling the block 1 inch and using a block guard. the local machine shop has recommend that thats what i should do but im not sure. is this a good ideal. it is a daily driver too.
03-21-2003, 10:44 AM
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
I've never heard anything about using block filler for a Honda engine. It seems like it would cut down on liner vibration, but I can't even speculate if it has any effect on cooling. You get to guinnea pig it.
You need to look into a block filler for aluminum engines... I vaguely recall something to the effect that the regular block filler has the coefficient of expansion that iron does. That may not be valid, or true, cause I don't really know this subject and am just repeating some stuff I "heard" a long time ago.
You need to look into a block filler for aluminum engines... I vaguely recall something to the effect that the regular block filler has the coefficient of expansion that iron does. That may not be valid, or true, cause I don't really know this subject and am just repeating some stuff I "heard" a long time ago.
03-21-2003, 12:51 PM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2002
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Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
I was gonna get my block sleeved by golden eagle, its like 800 for sleeves and shipping, but im up for a more homemade version. I dont think it would be as strong as a sleeve block though and cooling is always an issue because mines a daily driver too.
03-21-2003, 02:14 PM
#4
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Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
TurboRex bob kennedy filled his 1g crx boosted engine with some devcon epoxy, then drilled holes for cooling jackets,
but the entire sleeve isnt filled to the top, he put salt filled half way then drilled the holes, and flushed the salt out, pretty good idea!
Jeff
but the entire sleeve isnt filled to the top, he put salt filled half way then drilled the holes, and flushed the salt out, pretty good idea!
Jeff
03-21-2003, 03:08 PM
#5
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Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
Salt to space out the epoxy... ninja. Now that is some serious creativity.
Any clue on the epoxy's properties, or how long it has held together?
Any clue on the epoxy's properties, or how long it has held together?
03-21-2003, 03:12 PM
#6
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Join Date: Mar 2003
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Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
that sounds pretty interesting. i talked to the machine shop today and they said i shouldnt have any problems with coolant since they was only gonna fill it an 1inch from the bottom. he said most of the heat produced comes from the top of the stroke
03-21-2003, 04:18 PM
#7
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Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
all the load on the cylinder sleeves is about 2 inchs from the top, having the support at the bottom isnt going to do much.
http://www.devcon.com
http://www.devcon.com
03-21-2003, 04:27 PM
#8
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Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
a few pics
those are bob kennedy's pics
03-21-2003, 05:12 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 586
Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
that's nice lookin'...i wonder if the epoxy sweld and messed up the bore/hone on it....
03-21-2003, 05:16 PM
#10
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Posts: 13,991
Re:fill the block? block guard? which one????
indeed, if I was to fill the block, this is how I would do it,
fill the epoxy in the block (salt half way up)
install the main girdle/main caps and torque to spec
install the head and torque the head down to spec
(with both of this installed as the epoxy dries, the sleeves are torqued into place, so it wont shift at all)
let the epoxy dry, then remove the head
drill the holes for coolant passages.
get the cylinders rebored w/ new pistons and deck the block.
this way everything will be uniform.
Jeff
fill the epoxy in the block (salt half way up)
install the main girdle/main caps and torque to spec
install the head and torque the head down to spec
(with both of this installed as the epoxy dries, the sleeves are torqued into place, so it wont shift at all)
let the epoxy dry, then remove the head
drill the holes for coolant passages.
get the cylinders rebored w/ new pistons and deck the block.
this way everything will be uniform.
Jeff
