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- - zc d15 turbo (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/hybrid-tech-8/zc-d15-turbo-31476/)

Nice setup, very different and ---- ht bunch of assholes.

any one who wants tech info, blue prints, or specs is more than welcome to it.

Glad you signed up man :D

Those people on H-T are just douche bags. oh well :-\

i guess my swap wasn't jdm...

nice man, glad you joined.

if you could do a little write up (w pics) on the step by step to that zc head swap, that'd be cool.

Don't worrie about that non of there ---- is real jdm either. They think it is cuz the people on ebay post it as jdm. No you will be a good addion to this site. We should give him like 200 posts off the bat for not being a knob and knowing his ----.

Quote:

Originally Posted by baseballinmyass

i guess my swap wasn't jdm...

or a b-series. hehe
welcome man. we love the d here and anything flatrate.
you running zc cams in that d16a1 head?

How much time do you think you put into this project? Just curious.

yep but im looking for some new cores. i could break into the 12's with em

i personally spent a lot of time to figure out the tweaks but now i know them and im more than willing to share. its very easy with all the right ---- and could be done in 12-14hrs. also uberdata is a must due to different iac circuts.

damn dude your running a turbo nitroused zc and still not in the 12s whats your set up any way

what all is done to the shortblock, i know you said on HT is wasnt stock.

balanced and blueprinted crank the crower rods and cp pistons were pretty close so they were only ground down by about .1-.2 grams when they were balanced with the crank. the block was bored .020 over and im goind to put in a block brace of my own design

stock sleeves then huh? nice.

any luck finding a dyno yet? I am curious to see #'s.

Also, what snail you using there?

Very nice setup.....nice to see something different in a 5th gen. 8)

d15 rod aftermarket doesnt really exist, what crowers are you using, what pistons too?

where's the pics of the whole car! looks like it was green like mine but then painted black.
you still using the safc and btm even though you have uberdata? and an adjustable fpr...
nice cam gears!

yes because with uberdata there is no way to make on the fly adjustments what i found is that it isnt as adaptive as oem ecu. im using crower pro billet rods. and the fpr is for when im going to max out my fuel injectors duty cycle i can just up the fuel pressure ~5psi. custom cp pistons.

I have a set of ZC cams if you're interested. They are JDM so you might fit in better at Honda-Tech with them. ;)
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So your running Crower I-beam D15 rods?

Pretty interesting setup, I had a zc head all mocked up on a D15b2 shortblock, I thought for sure by boring out the 2 head bolt holes it would cut into a coolant passage on the head. Guess not?!..

Cool setup, and welcome to HMT :)

no because if you bore it out more than a 1/32" you did too much. if you use arp head studs you can guide the head over the studs and all the way down.

that's good setup. those dick heads at ht will bash anything that's isn't a top brand kit.

oh by the way you only need to bore out one hole in the top left hand corner. the center top bolt you need to tap and redrill to 10x1.25 and use the bolt from the zc, because there is a platform in the haed that sticks up about a 1/2" higher than the d 15 head studs.

Which obd1 ecu are you using to run uberdata and what did you use for a conversion harness?

you mean d16a1 head on a d15 block :P

Haha this is funny. Not 1 complaint here at HMT yet. You've got a nice little project there man and there was probably quite a bit of time/thinking that went on to accomplish it. So it's about time you received some recognition.

Very intresting now watch though a million questions on putting dohc zc heads on d15 :)

D16A1 is almost the same as a ZC...only different cams and ecu i guess..
1st gen CRX's from '87 over here comes tock with a ZC1 brown-top...it's looks the same as a D16A1....and the ecu is chippable...just can't control ignition...

Who said there is no aftermarket rod's for D15's??
Crower makes them :P

Nice setup man...and I was surprised it was in a EG and I was more surprised that it had a D15 block with a ZC head on it.
I have 2 D15 block's here and 2 ZC1'a and a D16Z5 ('92 ZC engine from the CRX...they sold the crx and EF civic in '92 also over here)

So how much did you drill the top left hole??

Damn...H-T members are dumb..

quote:"well the zc is not a vtec top end right? or am i wrong"

retarded??? you tell me :-*

first off i used a p06 ecu. i didnt need to use a conversion harness because i used the d15 throttle body(now upgraded) and a del sol b16 distributor. and yeah it's a d16a1 from an 89 integra but it had a brown top?
i dont know too much about the EF so i assumed its the zc.
it seems both head are identical any ways because thats (the zc) is what i order my head gaskets for.

Quote:

Posted by: baseballinmyass Posted on: Today at 02:28:56pm
oh by the way you only need to bore out one hole in the top left hand corner. the center top bolt you need to tap and redrill to 10x1.25 and use the bolt from the zc, because there is a platform in the haed that sticks up about a 1/2" higher than the d 15 head studs.

Differences are the d16a1 has a different style intake manifold and smaller cams.

would you or anyone else have zc cam specs?

2g Blacktop ZC intake manifolds flow better then the D16a1 IM's and the brown top ZC's. all A1/ZC twin cam Intake manifolds are swappable.

hmm, only one hole had to be bored out eh? For some reason I could of swore it was 2 holes? What did you do about timing belt and crank gear? The ZC uses a smaller gear on the timing belt, did you just use a ZC one?

I was unaware that Crower even made rods for the D15, I guess when you spend 600 dollars from them you should be able to get a set of rods for just about any 4 cylinder possible.

This is a pretty cool setup, Curious did you chamfer your oil passages in the block to match the ZC ports?

Keep us updated!

d16a1: valve cover bolts are on the inside.
zc: outside.
(julio lesson)

Quote:

Originally Posted by whiterice

d16a1: valve cover bolts are on the inside.
zc: outside.
(julio lesson)

the intake manifold you are using is from the 87-88 teggy. The 88-89 is not as square-ish looking..i have both i know ;) that and the 88-89 tegs vaccum lines are in the front as hte 87-88's are in the back and front

i just kept the d 15 crank timing gear and used 2 d 15 timing gears up top. if you have a zc head gasket and a d15 head gasket handy look at the oil passages they line right up. the coolant holes dont line up perfectly but so close it dosent matter. ie the zc holes are oblong where as the d 15 are round or vice versa or whatever.

Quote:

Originally Posted by baseballinmyass

i think i still have my ZC gasket ( old one ) ill look into that

Btw do you have pics of what needed to have been grinded ( grammar wasnt my strongest subject ) and what head bolt needed modding and what needed tapping? i like pics cause i suck with explanations...

this is the ---- you got to grind off. if you look in the picture by the motor mount you can see the bolt hole for the ps pump it needs to be cut so the mount can sit flush.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

also the timing belt cover might have to be removed or cut so the belt will fit.

here is a diagram of the bolt fitment:

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

also heres a write up i did for h-t:

first to start you need to get arp head studs for a 95 civic. all of the old bolts wont fit. you need to save the longest head bolt from the zc. that head bolt is the top middle.then you need a head gasket (i used an mls) for a d15. the head gasket needs to be slightly modified. if your looking at the motor from the front, the hole on the top left(far top left). is over to right a little compared to the zc. i used an air grinder to oblong the hole a little. then do you remember that long bolt? it is a 10x1.5mm or something i cant remeber for sure but it is a little bigger than the d15 bolt holes. i just tapped it out so the long bolt (the first one in head torque sequence) will fit.
next get rid of the old distributor and that sensor peice of ---- on the cams. i used a del sol distributor for the si (b16) the distirbutor needs one of the feet cut off so it'll fit i tried setting #1 at all positons but it'll only work in the factory position. although now i dont think it matters since i got msd.
i had to use the zc manifold becuase of the bolt pattern.the fuel rail and injectors from my d15 bolted jsut fine with the exception of 1 hole which i think is similar to crx. if you go to an after market fuel rail and injectors later on you'll have problems. the bolts that come out of the zc manifold dont have the same riser(once again i think it the same as crx) i had to drill an oblong hole once again in my aem fuel rail even though it set up for crx and d15. also the fuel rail it sefl i had to drill 1/2" x 3/8" holes in the original holes so that the fuel rail would sit lower to the manifold. now on to the throttle body.
the zc throttle body was a piece of ---- it small and it didnt have the map sensor on it so i used my dx tb. i had to cut off the lower right bolt (becuase of the zc's funky tb) but with three bolts an no need to rewire the harness. i had to fill the idle air control circut up with jb weld because the zc manifold plate where the tb mount doesnt extend down as far as the d15's does. so now i didm't have the iacv but that didn't matter because the old zc iacv was a rat nest of hose. so with uberdata and tweaking the screw on the tb i can get my idle just right.now the throttle cable and bracket was easy it just weld the d15 bracket to the zc manifold. the zc has of set holes where as the d15's are in a line or vice versa, but that the easy part the hard part is the set screw have to be backed all the way down to were the cable comes into the bracket then backed off ever so slightly. this is because the cable has a long stretch to tb. the smallest turn gives you about 200+ rpm. but thats just a little tweaking. all off manifold vacuum lines were just about the same. the zc had 2-3 extra so i just used them for boost gauge, bov and map sensor. or what ever. next the intake air temp was moved from the plenum to the runnerand it was a striaght bolt up. there was extra coolant lines left over from the block to the head so i ran the lines to the turbo.
the exhaust manifold is a very close fit to zc (stock d15) it just sits a little lower
than the zc exhaust. i made a custom turbo manifold for this anyways. the d 15 plug wires wont fit because they are too long but accel makes some good race ones for the zc.
then theres the timing gears i kept the crank timing pulley from the d15 and got rid of the zc cam gears. the zc cam gears are like one or two teeth larger than the d15 cam gears after a about five revolutions the timing is already like twenty degrees off. i just got two edlebrock cam gears for a d15 sohc and they bolted right to the zc camshafts. the timing marks on the gears line up almost perfectly. the reason i say almost is because if you look at the d15 it slants foward a little so tdc in relation to the head is a few degrees retard. if you look at the zc head it almost level . the big difference is only about 2-3 deg. all i do to set base timing is stick an allen wrench in the two oil holes in the zc camshafts and i can get a true tdc.
now as far as the timing belt goes you cant uses the zc one or the d15 one. i have a buddy that works at advance auto parts that lets me go in the back and look for parts. so the belt i found that fits i have no idea what kind of car it came off of. but i do have the part # it's a goodyear gatorback part # 40184 so if you can find it out good luck too you. my buddy says it came off a motorcycle.
then next modifaction i had to do was on the old zc the power steering pump bolts to the head. (i think it was ps dont remeber) this mount has a threaded body that sticks out. the whole body had to be cut in half then quatered so that it would fit over the motor mount bolts on the d15. the front mount on the same side needs to have about 3 5/16" washers between where it bolts to the block so that the timing belt dosen't rub also the timing cover on the block needs to be trimmed so that the belt dosen't rub. i dont know if the head timing cover will fit or not becuase i never had any intention of putting it back on. thats pretty much every thing i can think of.

i you have any questions or find discrepencies just hit me back and i'll answer.