WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

I have everything for the car to run, fuel, spark, and fresh air. Car starts but craps out after 30 sec, and if I place my hand over the TB I have very lil vac. YES THIS IS A REPOST of sort but I cant find the original. I had fuel in the runners, thought injectors were staying on. But I pulled the rail with the injector still conncected and turned over the car and they fired all at the same time for one cycle then they rotated like they should, so I know its not the injectors. Timing, question, if the #1 and #4 are top dead center and cam gears are skunk2 and they are facing straight up with the big dot, is this in sync for timing? I think its right. Motor is a Sleeved H22A JDM closed Block 9:1 compr Ross Racing piston motor with eagle rods and o.e. crank ,HASport harness, Type S cams, skunk2 stage 2 valvetrain, Crane cams ingniton box, and MSD cap and coil. I have spark to the plugs cause I shocked the hell out of my friend, then checked the right way with plugs on all 4 cylinders. I NEED A MIRACLE. Also before the motor was built it was a STOCK 10.6:1 compression and it ran fine. Best time was 14.11 on street tires 205-40-17

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

180* off at the dizzy? thats fucked me in the past

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I tried that and the cams wont allow me to put in on 180' off. It only lets me put it on one way. Unless Ilm not using enought force ???

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Anyone else have idea's. I have not done a valve adjustment yet just made sure the nut is tight. I was told to heat the motor up for 3 cycles retorque the arp head bolts and then do a valve adjustment. Also whas if this wrong whats the correct procedure to do the valve adjustment on a h22a. Tolerences are .07 intake and .08 exhaust. Do you put he feeler gauge between the cam and the rocker or between the rocker tip and the retainer. Pictures would help also.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

^^^Yeah, take it to a mechanic and post porn. Then ------- DIE :7

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

I'd love to take it to a mechanic but the mother cracker DONT RUN. Also I dont have a trailer to tow it. I turned the crank by hand with the valvecover off and according to the mechanics of it everything is fine. Intake open on stroke down, no cams pushing against the rockers on way up, stokes down, exhaust valves open, then strokes up. Now if the dizzy is somehow off 180' will it send signal to the ecu to close the contact ground to fire an injector if the valve is closed. I think the injectors are firing when the valves are closed. But when I put the dizzy on,,,,it only let me put it on one way. Any H series gurus in here.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

your talking about you cams but didnt say anything about the crank, set your crank from the crank pully first. It cant be wrong. then set your cams but if it runs then dies I doubt it timing.

put a fuel preasure gauge on the rail and check you priming pressure(key on off on of...take a reading)
then fire up the ar and watch the gauge to see if you lose preasure

come back if thats good

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Well I have a walbro 255lph that I installed for 3 months before pulling motor. I have a new filter and going to buy a new FPR from honda tomorrow. I have the crank set to TDC on 1 & 4 and BTC on 2 & 3, I put the cam in set to TDC, so the only way it can be out of timing is by the dizzy? But the Nig only lets me put it on one way so I cant be 180* off I think. I appreciate your help guys. Please keep it coming I'm trying all your ideas just have to find the time since its back to going to work till next sat 12hr shifts suck THANKS Toyota

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Also when it runs sometime I can hold the throttle wide open and the motor doesnt react acts like the throttle is closed. I put my hand over it and has very little vac. This motor has total seal rings and ross pistons with ferrea stainless valves. So I know they have not went bad. And I turned over the motor several times to buildoil pressure with the injector harness unplugged on initial start. It ran like crap at idle and I gave it gas and it reved to 4 grand and back down and thought all was well then it died, this was over prolly 25 sec's.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

I think you have some very tight valves. You need to adjust them, and you don't have to heat the motor before you do it. The feeler gauge should be placed between the rocker tip, and the cam lobe. The valves should be adjusted in the firing order, i.e 1-3-4-2. I'll suggest you buy a workshop manual at Auto Zone or another auto supply store.

Good luck.

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Iunderstand what you say about tight valves, I have brass valve guides and my machinist said he had to bore the ID to get the ferrera valves to clear in them, but are you talking about tight as is they are not opening all the way or not enough when they are opened by the cam? ---- I'm about over this damb car, I either break axles which are stage 3 driveshaftshops or I cant get the POS to run. It's not the motors fault and the HONDATA S300 throws codes like mad crazy cause the upset of the motor but also the stock P13 runs the engine same way when the runner is cleaned out after the fuel starts to river up in them. Who lives close to Seymour Indiana which is 30 miles north of Lousiville and 55 miles south of Indianapolice that can help me. I have all the tools and hell I'll even go out of my way to pick you up or pay for your gas and dinner. I"M DESPERATE

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Here is the link to the Hondata forum that I was able to post pictures of the intake and cylinder after trying to start along with the spark plugs. They are huge pictures but I dont know how to shrink all my pictures to post here http://hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5766

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Yes.

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Thanks Zeniceguy at msn I'm here all night from 3:30 am till 3:30pm I work 12hrs shifts so please be patient and helpful

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Also I'm not coming up with these excuses, I'm really havin issues with the car, so please dont blow this off. If you have knowledge please share it. I am trying every angle to get this car to run.Help me out

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

My buddy had the same issue with his b17 gsr motor after it came back from the machine shop. Turned out that had one of the cams a tooth off and it ran like ----, wouldn't idle unless you held the throttle open a bit. Reset the timing belt properly, checked the valve lash and now she screams. If you did the belt yourself, check it again...dohc's have a tendency to move a tooth when you take out the slack. Not to mention if your block/head was milled/resurfaced your cam timing will be slightly off as well due to a different combined deck/head height.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Yeah the head was decked a bit to make sure everything is flat and the head was also milled for flatness. So even though the cams are set TDC and the crank was also and even after I move the crank by hand and they all face TDC my cam to crank timing can be off from the milling. I'll take pics but when I post them they are huge as ----, and I'm on my laptop since my motherboard on my desktop took a ---- alos on me. What more can a white brotha ask for from god. Thanks

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

CAMs? If the fuel is back flowing into the intake manifold do I advance the intake cam? Then what about the exhaust cam, do I retard it to make sure they dont hit eachother or advance it also? I never messed with the cams adjustment when it was a factory motor just left it be until I did this build so thats why I'm ignorant to the adjustment. It makes sense to advance one and retard the other but I am a lil :S and just wanting to know ??? emoticons are cool and yes I overdo it sometimes

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

You really shouldn't be working on engines. The idea is to reatard the inlet and advance the exhaust to reduce the overlap time. N/A bikes run about 25 degrees overlap. Most turbo cars run about 6-8 degrees of overlap to combat reversion.

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Actually I've found that overlap on a turbo setup with log-style or short runner manifolds adds power by aiding in scavenging and will also help a smaller sized turbo last longer into the higher rpm's. Results vary with motors and setups though, this is my personal experience on my b16.

Also don't be confused with the crank timing marks on the pulley, if that's what you're going by. The 3 marks grouped together are for timing use only, and refer to btdc...the single mark by itself is the one you want to shoot for for setting cyl.1 at tdc.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

I care less about what the bike's settings are, I'm asking because someone mentioned that yes the marks can and will line up but still be off by a tooth is the block and head have been milled. I think it's false but ajusting the cams to find out wont hurt as long as they do not hit. This is my first actual tear down and rebuild from pieces, so I'm sure I'm not the only one that has endoured this learning experience. You Tough Guy act like you knew it all once you left your dads sack.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Well I got the car to run, but now it's got a knock/piston slap/ valves hitting the piston TYPE OF SOUND. Intake was retarded one tooth and the exhaust I believe is ok. But when I started the car for the first time I had the SOUND, so I think either I'm still off and the exhaust valves are tapping the pistons"bent valves now" or the sound I'm hearing is piston slap.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Does the car idle fine now? If you have forged pistons in your motor they will make a knocking sound until they warm up, almost like a diesel motor. 1 tooth off usually isn't enough to contact and bend valves unless it's a very high c/r motor.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

check oil

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it's 9:1 compression with forged ross 88mm pistons, I have oil, and I'm scared now that it's got bent valves but I'm going to do a compression test after I get to borrow my buddies tomorrow. What should the psi read 140 like most honda's or will be be less cause of the extra room that was put into the bore for boost.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

It honestly depends on the motor as to where your compression will sit. Like I said, forged pistons knock when cold. Let the motor warm up and see if it goes away.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

Your right again. The knock went away and I was able to just let her purr for like 30 min at an idle of 800rpm. The fan kicked on and off like 15 times which made my ass a happy muther fucker. I only have 2 coolant leaks, one at the cabin inlet line at the rear of the head, and the other on the outlet of the coolant tube under the intake manifold. CAM settings are as follows. INTAKE 4 degrees advance and exhaust 2 degrees retard. I'm sure there is error there and I'm going to leave it that way till I get it to a dyno and get the "I know you guys are against it" the Hondata S300 tuned. At idle it ran 13.8:1 A/F on the PLX M300 wideband. If I gave it gas it wanted to die at a lean of 15.9:1. But this was with the O.E. P13 computer. So again guys thanks and I cant wait to get it tuned on the dyno at a n/a of 9:1 and save that map and then bolt on the T4v tune it on a dyno later after break in. I was told to drive in town for 500 miles and give it a run for it's money to help seat the rings by my engine builder. Is this correct? Whats everyones take on how they break in a forged motor. Also how do I shrink pictures so they can be posted. Everyone of mine want to take up the whole monitor.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

I usually beat the piss out of my motors to break them in...usually the first 50 miles or so consists of pulls up to 3rd gear around 5-6k and then letting the motor decel on it's own. Just use some cheapo oil for the break in, and would probably be good to get a magnetic drain pan bolt. Change the oil after the first 100 miles, and then refill with whatever non-synthetic oil you want after that. Even then I only go about 500 miles and change it again, probably overkill though.

As for pics, use something like photobucket...they automaticly resize when you upload them.

Re: WTF EVERYTHINGS HERE
 

I have two drain plugs that are magnetic in my pan. And for the oil change tip THANKS. Loaded a P28 fuel and ingnition map and started the car, had a lean mix of 15.3 average and I got it to a 14.1 at a consistant idle of 900rpm and I'm not driving it till I get it on a dyno or get someone that has a better map for a H22A n/a 9:1 compression for a break in, HONDATA S300. Till then it sits and awaits a tuning session after my broke ass get some cash saved up. AGAIN THANKS GUYS/GIRLs.