traff1c

This was my brothers LS/VTEC. The engine came with a CRX that he had purchased. THe car came with a turbo setup in a box in the trunk., so we suspected the engine was probably built somewhat. I droped this bitch into his EG back in October, and he drove it N/A for a while. GSR crank, RODs and pistons. It pulled pretty good for beeing NA. Then it started making a funny sound when warming up.

Then one day on the drive to work. Bam... this happend. It never even got to taste that delicious boost.

My theory is that noise was a spun bearing , it heated the rod cap up, and the arp bolts snaped off, causing the crank to snap the rod off. tearing a nice hole in the oilpan.

Upon tearing it down i discovered that the remaining bearings were oversized (tight) they were worn to ----.


Nice puncture wound.


ARP studs.


THe cylinder itself wasnt damaged.


Free block notching anyone?


Snapped like a twig.


Notice the heat marks, ---- must have been red hot.




Broken ARP bolts.


Those ******* snapped right off





Wanted To Buy: 1 GSR crower Econo Rod, and 1 Arias GSR piston!!

Guy-Fast

Both companies should sell single units. Nothing like a 19year old h-t user building a motor.

Smith-02

awesome. i collect ---- from engine carnage, i have a good 7-8 pistons and some rods/valves in a similar fashion. front page?

BigBird

It blew up n/a therefore not worthy of front page.

Smith-02

of course it is.

make a motivator..
'H-T motor rebuilds'
'words don't do justice'

boosted_b16

LOL I still have 3 crower H beams and 3 JE pitons out of an LS motor that lost one rod from back like 5 years ago, to bad they aren't what you need or I would hook a brother up

onlyflash944

sweet pics

accordepicenter

the big end of that rod got heated to ----... im thinking due to the bearings being too tight as you mentioned...

CIVIC.93

damn nice destruction. could have been worse I put four holes in my block from one rod.

HiProfile

If it didn't knock in to other stuff & snap the bolts, you'd never have got that rod off the crank. My car came like that, and the rod stub was fused to the crank. It nearly welds itself together, and that's how you snap forged rods like toothpicks - the crank is stronger! If the ARP's went first (unlikely), it was because they we essentially annealed to the point of sub-grade1 bolts. You're lucky it didn't happen to #2 or 3 & take out the girdle. You could probably just get another crank, rod, and piston, get the RIGHT bearings for it, and boost it for a few thousand miles.