Turblow

Today was the day, finally after almost 11 months of downtime due to a blown motor, 2 body overhauls and this motor build I finally got it to start today
I can only start it if I touch the gas lightly, starts pretty much right up but the gas has to be held down for it to keep idling. If you watch the video first, you can tell it just sounds like its missing or something. I dont know how to describe it, ive never heard a built motor.

Here are the specs
88 Crx si
D16a6 engine running turboedit basemap (xenocron), dsm 450's
Vitara pistons/eagle rods, built head delta 272 cam aem cam gear (advanced 3 degrees)
T3 .60/.63 turbo, 3" downpipe

http://media.putfile.com/D16a6-First-Start
http://media.putfile.com/d16a6startup2

*in the videos, first vid I didnt have anny coolant in the radiator, forgot my dad drained it, made the vid to watch for smoke and then rememberred, filled it up and made the second video, the squeeking (please excuse the high pitch squeeking) was that and goes away*


Only problem I can truly see that would cause the shitty idle could be my intake manifold, its a venom square manifold, pretty nice piece, but I had to drill and tap holes for the iacv in the back, run a stainless line inside the manifold connecting the inside of the t/b to the iacv (connected to left side of iacv)

Im hoping you guys can give me the best and fastest ways to troubleshoot this idle and just poor running

It does have vitata pistons and is running open 3" downpipe

FooK

if its firing on all 4 cylinders, its probably just a matter of tuning out the idle. thats why its called a basemap.

Turblow

But the car wont stay on, wont idle and sounds kinda junky

I dont want to ebring it to a tuner with problems that would make it so I couldnt be tuned

I have a wideband, forgot to turn it on

Turblow

Well I ust spent 30 min trouble shooting and I found the problem for the idle I believe

I first checked my tps and it was dead perfect,

As I stated I couldnt get the car to idle without keeping my foot on the gas, so I placed a brick there and got the idle to what seemed like 1500 or so rpm, probably less

then I started checking for leaks, just spraying around with carb cleaner

Few vacuum lines, tried to get all around the t/b, then I hit the top of the intake (between 2-3 runners)

BAM! 3000+ rpm

Holy ----!

Did it a few times and the engine jumped right to life, sounded pretty mint up in those rpms as well, so I just threw a little copper gasket silicone where I thought I was spraying and I will check back tomorrow

A few problems though, my fan never came on, car musta been idling for 10 min and the temp needle moved up to about 40% but the fan never came on, I think I might have to hard wire it to a power switch though, I just solderred it to my stock wiring (12" slim fan)

Im also getting a good bit of WHITE smoke. Might just be from running rich or the vauum leak I dunno but theres a good bit of fairly dense smoke plooming from under the car, that may be assembly oil, but the cars been running for 10 min now, shouldnt it be gone?

For my vacuum readings, I was getting like -12 on the boost gauge whatever that means, needle was pretty steady, bounced with the engine going up and down a bit. Dunno if thats good or not

My wideband reading Im rpetty sure was wrong, it was holding steady at 10.13, never moving, a few times I seen it say 10.38, it was connected and working I beleive but I dunno, I do have a white wire form it left unconnected, I think thats for the wideband datalogging though. Its a twintec digital display wideband

SO tomorrow im going to try and fix the leak and hope it works. My tach doesnt seem to work either, wonder wtf I did there

1991civicsi

Remember that if you drained your coolant you must BLEED the air from the system or the fan will not turn on.