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Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

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Old 10-27-2006, 02:18 PM
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Default Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

ok, some of you may remember me asking about this before. I have a 95 accord vtec 5spd, the car ran perfectly until i installed the turbo system, however after that the vtec will not engage. before I would get a code 21 and 22. i checked the wiring, removed and cleaned the solinoid made sure it was clean installed a new gasket and still the same thing! after that i only got a code 22 (defective vtec oil pressure switch or wiring) i replaced the oil switch with a new one (65.00) and the same ----. I also bypassed the engine harness and ran fresh wires from the ecu to the oil pressure switch and solenoid, still the same ----, next i bypassed the oil switch and yep you guessed it the same ----! I checked the valve lash and adjusted, checked the dizzy timing, i even check all the bolts under the valve cover to make sure everything was tight, which it was. oil pressure is ok. I even decided to remove all the turbo ---- out of the car (to get rid of the car) and it still does not engage. the engine light only come on if you go over 5000 rpms(code 22). WTF it works when you first crank the car, if you crank it up and drive it immediately it works for about 1 mile then quits. could it be the ecu? i wouldn't think something is wrong with the head internally cause it works when cold. Engine temperature is normal, also the solenoid works fine and oil is flowing thru it. Any help would be appreciated......

<--vs--> Vtec

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Old 10-27-2006, 03:31 PM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

Sounds as though the car has low oil pressure due to damage or low flow to the switch. I would get an oil pressure gauge. You can disable the VTEC pressure switch in most OBDI rom editors.
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:31 AM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

Originally Posted by CSaddict
Sounds as though the car has low oil pressure due to damage or low flow to the switch. I would get an oil pressure gauge. You can disable the VTEC pressure switch in most OBDI rom editors.
I had an oil pressure guage on the car at idle (hot) it was 6psi. and it topped at 65-70 around 4000 rpms. I did bypass the oil pressure switch, which is why I don't uderstand still getting the code 22? Bad ECU? When the vtec engages the car is twice as fast, so It is bugging the ---- out of me. I can tell when the vtec engages cause the oil pressure instantly drops about 5psi or so when it does, but only when cold. Now the car started ideling like ----, it just bounces between 700 and 2000 rpms violently, is this related?
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:38 AM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

Wait so when you rev it at idle it hits VTEC and your oil pressure drops to 5psi? That is your problem. You seem to have an oil issue.
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Old 10-28-2006, 09:56 AM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

Originally Posted by CSaddict
Wait so when you rev it at idle it hits VTEC and your oil pressure drops to 5psi? That is your problem. You seem to have an oil issue.
no! read again, it drops by 5 psi or so, meaning if it is at 70 psi and vtec engages it drops to 65 psi....understand? As far as I understand that is normal anyway. Thanks
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Old 10-28-2006, 03:25 PM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

Disable the pressure switch and ride it.
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Old 10-28-2006, 03:31 PM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

6psi at idle sounds a little low to me. Rule of thumb is you must have at least 10psi of oil pressure per/1000 rpm's although Honda's seem to usually run 15-20 psi per/1000 rpm up until around the 6k range. I would say to remove the vtec oil pressure switch and attach an oil pressure gauge to check to make sure you have proper oil flow through the passages. You never know...it could be clogged. Oh, and the ecu needs to see around 60psi of oil pressure for it to allow vtec function so there really is no way to "bypass" the oil switch other than chipping the ecu and removing that feature.
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Old 10-28-2006, 06:27 PM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

Originally Posted by slo_crx1
6psi at idle sounds a little low to me. Rule of thumb is you must have at least 10psi of oil pressure per/1000 rpm's although Honda's seem to usually run 15-20 psi per/1000 rpm up until around the 6k range. I would say to remove the vtec oil pressure switch and attach an oil pressure gauge to check to make sure you have proper oil flow through the passages. You never know...it could be clogged. Oh, and the ecu needs to see around 60psi of oil pressure for it to allow vtec function so there really is no way to "bypass" the oil switch other than chipping the ecu and removing that feature.
This I will try....supposing that the passages are clogged, what can I do to clean them out?
it appears to all be built into the head, there are no mesh screens or anything like that on this engine (f22/b1), the housing for the vtec switch, and solenoid does not unbolt. This engine has 200,000 miles on it. But it worked great until the turbo? What about the oil pickup tube gasket would that cause low oil pressure, or would it cause no oil pressure at all? It doesn't even smoke or anything. Thanks for the help!~..........
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:41 PM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

If the gasket on the pickup tube was leaking it would end up sucking air up I would think. As long as you used a gasket and not some silicone gasket sealant and torqued the nuts to spec I'd think it should be ok. As far as clogged passages, there should at the very least be some hex bolts threaded into the head. When they machine the heads for the passages they just use the hex bolts to plug the ends of the passageways. Should be able to take them out (carefully of course) if it comes down to it.
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Old 10-29-2006, 06:41 PM
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Default Re: Somebody shoot me now! Damn vtec

Ok, I got it fixed finally! I feel like a dumbass, someone appearently put silicone all around the housing for the vtec units and i coudn't see the bolts until i hit it with carb cleaner. anywho I removed the block and holy ---- there was a screen, full of metal shavings......(i don't know why) but I cleaned it out and it worked like new. The metal shavings were aluminum, i think when my turbo blew up it put shaving into my engine. (the nut on the cold side of the turbine came off and ground the ---- out of the turbo) don't buy cheap knock off turbos! Anyway Thanks for your help again............. <--dumbass
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