Shit box CRV winter beater
 

Hey ------s, been awhile since I've been around. Got an 01 CRV for a winter beater. Has some vibration issues so I assume it needs new U-Joints. Honda tells me I have to buy the whole ------- "propeller shaft" it's ------ $900!!! I got the ---- box for free but that doesn't mean I want to put money into it. Also heard that you can try changing the rear diff fluid and it might fix it. Any help/ideas?

OH, also, sometimes the e-brake light stays on for while but I have never used the ebrake. fluid is at the proper height to...any ideas??


Thanks guys!

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

manual or auto? if it's manual than turbo that ----.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

:(
It's auto. Thinking about a Vtec head from a B18C. If after that I still need more power then maybe a turbo. Keep in mind that this thing is JUST a winter beater.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

i know there is a way to replace the u joint without buying the $900 replacement.

check out hondasuv.com

i love my crv. i want to turbo it but i just picked up an ef 4dr for boost.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

i highly doubt it needs "u-joints"

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

rear diff aka daul pump setup has had more fails since owners do not change the fluid (makes a moaning or grumbling noise). you want dual pump fluid II. the element and the newer crv have a bulletin on this issue. i believe the fluid is up to $10 for a quart. get good at setting valves if not ur crv will eat them like candy lol

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

08200-9007 x3
94109-20000 x2

bill them out all the time lol... that would be a rear diff burnish on a dual pump vehicle... fluid is 10bucks a quart, washers a couple bucks each.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

more like a tire squeeling/less moaning noise.

i change my dual pump fluid 2 times a year.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

stole this from hondasuv.com:

"I successfully replaced both u-joints in the prop shaft. Have run about 10,000 km's with no problems so far. Rear joint was totally shot & the front was tight & ratchety so I did both. Order from www.rockforddriveline.com
I removed the shaft, then cut out the old u-joints with a pnuematic die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Drive the old bearing caps out toward the center (they should come out easily). I believe this prevents the bores in the yokes from being destroyed by forcing the old bearing caps past the "staked" section. I then used a small grinding stone in the die grinder to grind out the "staked" section. Be careful when doing this, grind a little at a time & use one of the new bearing caps as a gauge. Open it up enough that the new cap just slides into the bore. If it is too tight the joint will feel ratchety. You can check this before re-installing the shaft. Make sure the joint moves freely. If you open it up too much it will vibrate & you are screwed.
The new u-joints have a groove for a circlip which locks the joint in place on the inside of the yoke. Just make sure the clips are seated properly in the groove. You may have to tap the bearing caps from one side or the other to fully expose the groove past the yoke bore. Hold them with a pair of needle nose pliers & tap into place with a hammer. Be careful as they tend to fly accross the room if not held securely when installing them. The new joints come with a "needle" type grease fitting. You can purchase a needle which will attach to a standard grease gun. Do not over grease as you will unseat the seals. The joint is pre-lubed so it should not be necessary to grease at first.
One more caution. Remove the grease seals from the bearing caps & place them on the center section of the joint before installing. You will destroy them if you press the caps through the yoke bore with them on as they are larger than the bore.
U-joints + shipping + customs brokerage was about $100 to Canada. Much better than $800 for a new shaft."


edit: your prop shaft center bearing might be bad.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

WOW, thanks for the helps guys. I'm really getting sick of being told I can't replace u-joints in this ---- box. I am going to do the rear diff fluid this weekend(Maybe even tomorrow) the vehicle has 314200kms(195235mi). My g/f's dad was pretty good at maintaining it I think. Had a full respray done on it 2 years ago, aside from a few scratches it;s pretty mint. The leather has no rips or wear marks. How many "quarts" does the rear end take, i think it's 2 right?
If that doesn't help at all I will take out the "propeller shaft" or whatever honda calls it, see it there is still a vibration and go from there.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

takes 1.1qt

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

I have an 04 crv. After we got the car I started noticing a grinding/vibration, mostly when going around corners. I replaced the rear end fluid and no more noise. Incredibly easy job, hope that is all you need.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

brake light being on is the brake cap since it has a sensor or whatever inside the cap... to fookin tired

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

to test and fix, just unplug the cap... its like 38bucks for a cap :-X didnt even see that in his post the first time...

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

Yeah it's intermittent so I just figured it was the switch on the e-brake maybe, wasn't too worried about it as the fluid was at proper level.

The other day when we got a ---- ton of snow I stop on our driveway, which is on a hill and stuck my head underneath while still in the car. I think that a lot of bushings/mounts need to be replaced haha I could see the rear end moving up and the propeller shaft extending it's self at the yoke. Judging my that movement I would imagine motor mounts and the mounts on the rear end should be replaced. While driving in our parking garage though I can hear a clunk while the wheels are turned and accelerate. I think I should start with replacing the diff fluid and go from there. Man I have really ran on and on.

Re: Shit box CRV winter beater
 

window weld! those mounts, honda can't make a mount design to save there holey arse lol