---- box CRV winter beater
12-14-2008, 03:19 AM
#1
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,368
---- box CRV winter beater
Hey ------s, been awhile since I've been around. Got an 01 CRV for a winter beater. Has some vibration issues so I assume it needs new U-Joints. Honda tells me I have to buy the whole ------- "propeller shaft" it's ------ $900!!! I got the ---- box for free but that doesn't mean I want to put money into it. Also heard that you can try changing the rear diff fluid and it might fix it. Any help/ideas?
OH, also, sometimes the e-brake light stays on for while but I have never used the ebrake. fluid is at the proper height to...any ideas??
Thanks guys!
OH, also, sometimes the e-brake light stays on for while but I have never used the ebrake. fluid is at the proper height to...any ideas??
Thanks guys!
12-14-2008, 11:42 PM
#6
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: btown,mt
Posts: 131
Re: ---- box CRV winter beater
rear diff aka daul pump setup has had more fails since owners do not change the fluid (makes a moaning or grumbling noise). you want dual pump fluid II. the element and the newer crv have a bulletin on this issue. i believe the fluid is up to $10 for a quart. get good at setting valves if not ur crv will eat them like candy lol
12-15-2008, 12:45 AM
#7
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,656
Re: ---- box CRV winter beater
Originally Posted by B20x
rear diff aka daul pump setup has had more fails since owners do not change the fluid (makes a moaning or grumbling noise). you want dual pump fluid II. the element and the newer crv have a bulletin on this issue. i believe the fluid is up to $10 for a quart. get good at setting valves if not ur crv will eat them like candy lol
94109-20000 x2
bill them out all the time lol... that would be a rear diff burnish on a dual pump vehicle... fluid is 10bucks a quart, washers a couple bucks each.
12-15-2008, 02:27 AM
#8
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 312
Re: ---- box CRV winter beater
Originally Posted by B20x
rear diff aka daul pump setup has had more fails since owners do not change the fluid (makes a moaning or grumbling noise). you want dual pump fluid II. the element and the newer crv have a bulletin on this issue. i believe the fluid is up to $10 for a quart. get good at setting valves if not ur crv will eat them like candy lol
i change my dual pump fluid 2 times a year.
12-15-2008, 02:40 AM
#9
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 312
Re: ---- box CRV winter beater
stole this from hondasuv.com:
"I successfully replaced both u-joints in the prop shaft. Have run about 10,000 km's with no problems so far. Rear joint was totally shot & the front was tight & ratchety so I did both. Order from www.rockforddriveline.com
I removed the shaft, then cut out the old u-joints with a pnuematic die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Drive the old bearing caps out toward the center (they should come out easily). I believe this prevents the bores in the yokes from being destroyed by forcing the old bearing caps past the "staked" section. I then used a small grinding stone in the die grinder to grind out the "staked" section. Be careful when doing this, grind a little at a time & use one of the new bearing caps as a gauge. Open it up enough that the new cap just slides into the bore. If it is too tight the joint will feel ratchety. You can check this before re-installing the shaft. Make sure the joint moves freely. If you open it up too much it will vibrate & you are screwed.
The new u-joints have a groove for a circlip which locks the joint in place on the inside of the yoke. Just make sure the clips are seated properly in the groove. You may have to tap the bearing caps from one side or the other to fully expose the groove past the yoke bore. Hold them with a pair of needle nose pliers & tap into place with a hammer. Be careful as they tend to fly accross the room if not held securely when installing them. The new joints come with a "needle" type grease fitting. You can purchase a needle which will attach to a standard grease gun. Do not over grease as you will unseat the seals. The joint is pre-lubed so it should not be necessary to grease at first.
One more caution. Remove the grease seals from the bearing caps & place them on the center section of the joint before installing. You will destroy them if you press the caps through the yoke bore with them on as they are larger than the bore.
U-joints + shipping + customs brokerage was about $100 to Canada. Much better than $800 for a new shaft."
edit: your prop shaft center bearing might be bad.
"I successfully replaced both u-joints in the prop shaft. Have run about 10,000 km's with no problems so far. Rear joint was totally shot & the front was tight & ratchety so I did both. Order from www.rockforddriveline.com
I removed the shaft, then cut out the old u-joints with a pnuematic die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Drive the old bearing caps out toward the center (they should come out easily). I believe this prevents the bores in the yokes from being destroyed by forcing the old bearing caps past the "staked" section. I then used a small grinding stone in the die grinder to grind out the "staked" section. Be careful when doing this, grind a little at a time & use one of the new bearing caps as a gauge. Open it up enough that the new cap just slides into the bore. If it is too tight the joint will feel ratchety. You can check this before re-installing the shaft. Make sure the joint moves freely. If you open it up too much it will vibrate & you are screwed.
The new u-joints have a groove for a circlip which locks the joint in place on the inside of the yoke. Just make sure the clips are seated properly in the groove. You may have to tap the bearing caps from one side or the other to fully expose the groove past the yoke bore. Hold them with a pair of needle nose pliers & tap into place with a hammer. Be careful as they tend to fly accross the room if not held securely when installing them. The new joints come with a "needle" type grease fitting. You can purchase a needle which will attach to a standard grease gun. Do not over grease as you will unseat the seals. The joint is pre-lubed so it should not be necessary to grease at first.
One more caution. Remove the grease seals from the bearing caps & place them on the center section of the joint before installing. You will destroy them if you press the caps through the yoke bore with them on as they are larger than the bore.
U-joints + shipping + customs brokerage was about $100 to Canada. Much better than $800 for a new shaft."
edit: your prop shaft center bearing might be bad.
12-15-2008, 09:47 PM
#10
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,368
Re: ---- box CRV winter beater
WOW, thanks for the helps guys. I'm really getting sick of being told I can't replace u-joints in this ---- box. I am going to do the rear diff fluid this weekend(Maybe even tomorrow) the vehicle has 314200kms(195235mi). My g/f's dad was pretty good at maintaining it I think. Had a full respray done on it 2 years ago, aside from a few scratches it;s pretty mint. The leather has no rips or wear marks. How many "quarts" does the rear end take, i think it's 2 right?
If that doesn't help at all I will take out the "propeller shaft" or whatever honda calls it, see it there is still a vibration and go from there.
If that doesn't help at all I will take out the "propeller shaft" or whatever honda calls it, see it there is still a vibration and go from there.
