MAJORAHOLE

HF has a air filter/separator, thats what i use.
1.get a stick,your paint shop should have a metal one,and hold it in the cup
2. if its a 2:1, 2parts A to one part B,mmkay?
3. fill 2 units of measure of A, then add one of B. get it? or if you just fill it to the on on part A then add .5 to it.
its not that hard.

and wet sand after clearing it, but don't wait to long or it will be a bitch to buff.
use 1500 to 2000 grit.

Turdbo

thanks man

Slo_crx1

I usually get the little mixing cups that have the ratios on the sides of them...those are the easiest to use. Just pick what ratio the paint company reccomends it to be mixed at and go from there. Also, do yourself a favor and get a few of those little paper strainers and pour everything through them into the gun. That way ---- doesn't get clogged in the nozzle. Most 2 stage paints go paint+reducer, and clearcoat+hardner. For the most part it seems that most companys reccomend a lower psi setting at the nozzle for your paint than for the clearcoat. On average I spray the basecoat at 8psi at the nozzle, and the clearcoat usually at 12. Confused yet? When it says "at the nozzle", it doesn't mean the pressure that you turn the regulator down to. When you pull the trigger all the way (do a dry run for this to get your psi setting right), watch the gauge on the regulator and adjust it until you hit your target psi. On average my pressure reads close to 40psi at the regulator to achieve 10 at the nozzle. Also do light even coats, keeping the spray pattern moving in the same direction. I usually spray about a 8-10 inch fan spray. Do a couple of tests on something like a piece of cardboard or an old hood until you get the fan spray adjusted to where you want it and it looks the smoothest. Allow proper amount of flash time between coats to avoid runs. Average is usually about 10-15 minutes between coats. If your basecoat lays down nice and smooth and you have good coverage, you have one of two choices...you can either spray your clearcoat after giving about 30 minutes of flash time, or you can let it sit and dry overnight. If you let it sit, you need to lightly scuff the paint to allow proper adhesion of the clearcoat. Honestly it's alot easier to spray your CC immediately instead of waiting overnight. And most importantly, prepping is the key. Make sure everything is sanded down with 600 grit paper before you spray your basecoat. Any metal showing should be shot with a self-etching primer, and then sanded. Any more questions? This is what I do for side income, so feel free to ask me Good luck!

Turdbo

ok the entire car is sprayed with self etching primer and i wet sanded it down with 400 today...i have bunch of 600 grit..should i use that or will 400 be ok?...also should i paint the bumper, door handles, and liscence plate thingy while it is off of the car?..or should i put them on and then spray it all at once?

Turdbo

and also i should clean the gun before i lay the clear on right? how and what should clean the gun with? laquer?

Turdbo

i was looking at the paper that came with the paint and it says
MIXING RATIO:
Mix one part Base color with one part 161, 162, or 163 reducer.

i have 162 reducer, but does that mean that my ration is 1:1 ?...which means that mix my base color and reducer equal?

Slo_crx1

Usually existing paint or primers are sanded with 400 before the layer of sealer primer is layed on. 400 grit will show sanding scratches through on the basecoat, so I would hit it up with the 600 anyway.
Yes, you need to clean the gun out whenever you switch colors or paint mediums, i.e. basecoat to clearcoat. I use regular medium reducer to clean out the basecoat, whereas the laquer thinner will work for clearcoat. You'll find out that reducer and your clearcoat just don't mix Yes, it is a 1:1 ratio. Judging by the numbers you listed I'm guessing the 162 is a medium reducer, 161 and 163 are probably the slower and faster drying reducers for hotter or colder weather. Medium reducer is usually the best all around to use, and also the easiest.

Turdbo

almost done with the car ..i have about 2 more coats of clear and i'll be finished it looks really good ....tomorrow im wet sanding and when its done im going to post a write up on painting a car so you guys will see pics in that thread ...thanks for the tips

4doorfury

Hope you used a 2k primer. If not, dieback will pwn you. Maybe not today, or tomorrow, but it will. And hopefully a 2k sealer. Or even a sealer at all. If not, there is no garuntee of the product to hold up too well. As far as wet sanding, if u got a few $ laying around, buy a da sander, a hookit 2 da pad, a hookit 2 interface pad, and some 3m trizact discs. Works ------ magic. Even does well on black. I painted my del sol a few months back, I did a fade from GM sunburst orange into black. This is what I am in school for so if u have any ? just ask.

reactone

What's dieback? I've never heard of that before.