Slo_crx1

I'm getting ready to put my non-tec together...b16a bottom with the LS head for now...and i'm having an issue. I've been having a hard time trying to get a b16 oil pump (the block only has the rotating assembly on it), and Honda themselves want a monster nut for a new pump. I still have my LS oil pump that will fit on, but would it even be worth it? I used to do a couple of spring change tricks with my old D-series oil pumps that up the oil psi, but I don't know if the volume would be upped as well. This motor in it's current setup will never see over 7800 rpm due to the head, so should i just keep hunting for the b16 pump or just re-adjust the LS pump instead?

NCHATCH

i have a gsr oil pump with about 12K mile son it for 20 bux +ship if you want it homey


the LS pump is just not adequit enough to give proper oiling, hence the main reason for so many spun rod bearings

HMT-Admin

so when you guys do these ------ b16/ls combos, do you block the port in the block or just say ---- it and hope the head/gasket will be fine? I would think some oil seapage would happen on the oil feed corner (for vtec)

Random Hero

I have done it jeff. Just drill the hole out and use a nice sized plug in the block. I think it was a 5/16 plug when i did it. or a 3/8

Slo_crx1

I'm pretty sure it's a 5/16" plug. 3/8" is too small. That's the only part of the block that the LS HG doesn't cover.Lemme do some more searching, but i'll probably take you up on that. A stock LS bottom with a vtec head i know can't handle the extra oiling needs, but it's not gonna have a vtec head on it just yet. But still...y change the pump twice

snatch10psi

Not true...its because the rod bolts are weak they strecth and bam you got yourself a spun bearing...look at the torque specs between b18a/b and all other b's different metals dont ask why honda did it but put some arp rod bolts in it and its all better....and so everyone knows there is only 2 differences between b16 b18 all b oil pumps...the srping rate is different..and also on ls's there is a shim that lowers the springs rates.... so go get a nwe b16 spring put it together without your ls shim and wala... you got yourself the almighty type r oil pump everyone pays top dollar for have a nice day

USS

Good information to know! Thanks for that.

Um... 5/16" is smaller than 3/8", just to let you know. The head needs to be tapped with a 1/8 pipe-thread tap, then have a plug inserted.

hebijake

do the pump now. or in a few weeks when you spin bearings you'll wish you did.

Slo_crx1

See that's the info i'm talkin about I used to change spring rates in the d-series oil pumps to jump up the pressure (i like to have at least 20psi per 1000 rpm, even though 10 is minimum required), and it seems that nobody really does this to b-series pumps for some reason. Of course, i don't think anyone even messes with the d-series pumps anymore for that matter Oh, and so you guys know, the spring is located inside the tube on the pump with the large plug on the end...i know that question will eventually pop up.

HMT-Admin

you got pics of this? the shim in the ls pump? I've had one apart and dont recal a shim in there? If this is the case thats definatly pretty cool, I couldnt imagne all these b-series oil pumps being that much diffrent.