Instead of using a A6 intake mani on a Z6 to remain OBD0, is there a reason I cant simply swap the sensors? I would have tried already but Im having a hell of a time getting my ------- motor out. Cant get the damn crank pulley bolt loose. Would have been done by now. Im stuck using a shitty electrical impact wrench from Autozone, which has less power than a D15B2 with one injector stuck and 3 spark plug wires undone.

 

Bump cause one of you have done this....and Chris...sell me a A6 trans.

 

---- that ----, he is selling me that tranny

 

I have a couple of them

 

sweet

 

I dont want that 88trans, unles you give it to me for a hell of a steal,,, thats the year for the weird spline count. need 89-91 trans, and my ------- hasnt been answered still. Im just gonna try that ---- anyway.

That gotdamned crankpulley bolt re-----------ing-fused to come loose. I even had the entire wieght of the car on that bitch. ---- it. I getting a friends compressor and butane torch tommorow, this bitch WILL be swapped tommorow







For some reason, my topics keep turing up missing.
Anyways.
No start condition, first code I got was 10 (IACV), which is no big deal, it will not prevent the motor from starting.

After a couple cranks, I started getting a code 8 (TDC?). I figured maybe I had B10 and b12 wires crossed, seeing I converted to MPFI. They were in the right spots, but I swapped them just to see what happens. code 8 left, but code 4 appeared. So, the wires were correct. I redo them, then switch around the blue/green and blue/yellow wires for the CPS. No change, code 4 again.

I figure I might have had the ignitor wires crossed. Im running OBD0 on the Z6, so I'm running a A6 dizzy. I depinned the round plug, I repinned to the square plug and the green 2 pin like I had on the ZC. Still no change. So I put them back how they were and just x2 checked all my wiring, which was correct.

I gave it a rest, then just finished wiring up my little tach. I ran the green magneto wire to the blue wire coming from the 2 pin connector at the dizzy, which should have been the wire for the tach, according to my schematics. Just a simple two way snap connector on that. I go to start the car, just to see if every thing is working. now I get a 8,9,10, and 16.

WTF?

Will low fuel pressure cause code 16? I know its an injector code, but the injector's worked fine on the ZC, as well as the harness. It has a questionalble adj. FPR that Im gonna replace with a stock unit. I did adjust that FPR when I was screwing with the tach, so its very likely that set off 16.
As far as ignition goes, I'm just gonna assume the dizzy is bad. If im pulling TDC codes and crank sensor codes with correct wiring, its gotta be the dizzy.
Will keep posted, prolly wont work on it much untill I find a distributor.





ignore

 

Torch does nothing. You need to get the tool to hold the crank pulley and then you'll just be a 5-9ft pipe "breaker bar" away from removing it. I've torched the hell out of one, it did nothing, but probably kill the crank seal...too bad I sold that two months later.