fullcollapse

It is a d16z6, with a rebuilt bottom end. The work was done professionally from a reputable shop. Has eagle rods, srp pistons, full arp hardware. new bearings, balanced/polished crank. It currently has a A6 oil pan on it.

The A6 oil pan I believe sits alittle deaper. Now the oil pickup is the stock z6 pickup, with the stock z6 dipstick, so it should take alittle more oil then normal, but as long as the dip stick reads good, then the oil pickup should be able to get oil?

We had two oil pumps laying around from two different z6 motors. My friends ran extremely strong and had no problems, we had them mixed up so we are not sure which one is which, the other z6 pump was on the motor.
We put the smoothest feeling oil pump on the motor.
We also replaced all seals, have everything at proper torque specs, and used rtv sealant where our service manual said to just to do everything like said. Also new headgasket.

We took off the oil cap on the valve cover, no oil, but you could kinda see like smoke/steam? we took the valve cover off completely and no smoke/steam looking ----, there was no oil circulation at the head at all except very minor towards the #1 piston. There is four holes it looks like in each corner of the head, I guess where oil flows? They are all dry except that one corner.

I want to do a pressure check at the back of the block like the manual says tomorrow, but its obvious there is ---- for oil pressure unless there could be a crazy clogging going on? The only gauge I have is one that reads up to 3000 psi, and all my other ones at work are even higher so I may have to go and buy one I suppose.

I'm wondering if there is a way to pinpoint the problem, I was looking for a flow chart or something but no luck. I was going to drain the oil today, drop the oil pan, take off timing belt, pull the oil pump, and swap it with the other oil pump. but i dont know if this is neccessary anymore.

I posted this on honda-tech and was told that i just need to prime the oil pump, and i can do this easily by taking off the oil filter and cranking it some and oil should start coming out of the filter area. Anyone else have a similar problem or know that this is all i should need to do?

Sorry this post is alittle long, I hope I have enough info in it. We are anxious to solve all of our problems so we can break the motor in and get it to work and start on the turbo install.

Slo_crx1

You are supposed to prime the oil pump before you start the motor for the first time. Not priming can lead to spun bearings if you already started the motor. What I normally do is pull all the spark plugs out, fill the oil a little higher than it's supposed to be (leave the filter on or you'll have a mess all over), and crank the engine over until I see my oil pressure gauge start to bounce up and make a few psi at cranking. My motor's usually take about 20 seconds of cranking or so to make pressure, which is ok if the person who assembled the motor made sure to use plenty of assembly lube during the assembly.

fullcollapse

---- well now im worried, i drove the car down the street and back and the motor ran great, i took off the valve cover and saw it was dry, do u rec i add oil and take out plugs and crank it to see if it builds up pressure

Donald125

u drove it wihtout oil pressure , the bearings prob.ly fucked, cam/rocker arm and stuff. time for another re-built :1
check all the bearing, cam jorunal compression and such. shouldn`t have use an USED oil pump anyway

Slo_crx1

I've re-used oil pumps before...as long as they spec out ok, and I add a little spacer to the oil pressure relief valve spring But maybe it's cause I've always been on a tight build budget
At the very least there's probably cam journal damage to the head. Did you guys get a new gasket for the oil pickup tube, or try to make an rtv one? If that's not sealed on properly, no oil psi for you :P

fullcollapse

Ok we have oil to the head finally.
We swapped pumps, primed it, then cranked it over and over with the plugs out. We never saw oil get to the head and we searched and found a post about a guy who cranked his for 4 minutes total, with breaks inbetween of course, and also never got pressure up. So he started it up and it was fine.
So we said screw it and started it up, valve cover off. Oil was shooting out onto the intake manifold so we were good.
The only problem is the oil light will not go off now.

We know oil is up there now, I can see it shooting everywhere around with the oil cap off at idle. And everything is oiled up in the head nicely coated.

Any ideas on the oil light still being on?

Im probably just going to replace the oil senser just in case

Donald125

oil light goes on when pressure is lower then aroudn 5 psi IIRC.
hook up a oil pressure gauge and check for oil pressure, or simply rev it up a bit and see if the light goes out. if it does, either ur bearings are fucked or the oil pump is worn.
Or it could be a defective sensor which i doubt it LOL, oh wait did u even hook it up tho?

fullcollapse

yeah i hooked it up, i replaced it today too with another sensor from another block i had, didnt get to really test it tho because it started raining pretty hard :1