Need some old school muscle help again

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07-11-2007, 08:38 PM

#11

Smith-02

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Join Date: Apr 2006

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

This is a new motor and hasn't been running long enough for me to know if it pours while running

I did turn it upside down a few times so im sure a float or valve is bloacked with dirty ....

holleys, webers, most import carbs, are the only thing that can be flipped over and not ---- the float up

07-11-2007, 11:08 PM

#12

Smith-02

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Join Date: Apr 2006

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

Yea it was on the old motor for about a year and i took it off and up'ed it a few times int he processs of moving to my new garage ... must have junk in my needle valve ----.

no, from what i've seen personally, with qjets, holleys, webers, qjets don't have a needle that, when tipped, will remain attached to the float, and the needle will just sit open regardless of how much or how little fuel you pump in.

07-12-2007, 12:35 AM

#13

Tom-Guy

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Join Date: Feb 2003

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Basically, its a fifteen to thirty minute fix if you ever got off the internet and tried to fix your ----.

07-12-2007, 10:43 PM

#14

Smith-02

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

Took the air horn off and checked, the floats are fine. The needles are clean and seal . It just cranks and cranks and gas dribbles out the headers. Have spark, gets fuel and timing i cant really check since it aint running ...

aftermarket fuel pump not regulated to 4-7psi?

anything past 10psi is pretty much gonna bypass the needle anyways

07-12-2007, 11:10 PM

#15

Smith-02

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

stock fuel pump, dead on 6.5 psi.

My needle valves and seats looke clean and are tight.

Could I have just flooded it that bad by pouring a little gas in the carb and over cranking it that it caused the drip out the header??

use ether, not gas, when priming. it'll start faster and will evaporate.

pull the carb off, and blowgun the intake ports

07-12-2007, 11:27 PM

#16

Smith-02

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

Well I checked it again and the carb is fine. I must have just flooded it terribly before . Tommrow I will change the oil and filter and see why it wont fire up. Its cranking good and the number one cyl has spark ... it was running but wouldnt start today ...

pop the valve cover of the cyl bank that is #1, crank it over so the exhaust valve closes, and at TDC you have TDC on #1, line up the dizzy rotor to #1 cyl post marked on dizzy housing so you can find #1 with the cap off.

07-12-2007, 11:32 PM

#17

imburne

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Join Date: Jun 2006

Posts: 3,256

Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by c0mpl3x

that's what you get for buying an edelbrock.

may as well buy ssauto carb rebuild kit while you're at it

Do they make a ssauto carb ----? Im gonna make the first all cdm jeep if there is.

07-12-2007, 11:43 PM

#18

Smith-02

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

I honestly tried to comprhend that but your loosing me with the at TDC you have TDC

to get true top dead center, assuming you timed the cam right, you have to make sure that your crank is on the revolution that sets your cam on the right rotation.

cam turns once for crank turning twice, just because you have tdc on #1 doesn't mean it's not off 180º.

you can not pop the valve cover off, and still do it, and just reclock the distributor to #1 cyl.

i always mark where the #1 cyl firing post is on my cap, on the distributor so i know where exactly #1 is if i take the distributor out, or need to leave room for timing changes.

07-13-2007, 09:43 PM

#19

Smith-02

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Re: Need some old school muscle help again

Quote:

Originally Posted by burkej62

Okay nigglets, I hooked up my new fuel pressure gauge today and cranked the motor over for a few seconds and it was showing 10 psi. This fuel pump was on my old motor, i had to change it over to this newer motor because it had a funny pump with three nipples on it before. I tired again tonight and couldn't get it to start.

Is it possible for a fuel pump to go bad and pump too much? IS it possible when i changed the fuel pump the rod is stuck or somehting making it pump wide open??

Side question - How do I GET to TDC? I can't move the crank pulley at all by hand and i over shoot it when i bump it with the starter ?!

pull your plugs dumbass, how else do you get rid of compression?

10psi is way to much for a carb that hasn't been modified. if you have no fuel return, 10psi will be like pissing in your own mouth.

you need to lower the pressure to a safe 4-7psi, i'd go for 4 or 5. higher psi is just more of a chance of running rich and ruining any gas mileage you may have