Need some old school muscle help again
I think the floats on my edlebrock are stuck because i have tons of fuel pouring out my pass side collector on the nova. How hard is it to rebuild these fuckers? I have the kit it was like 40 bucks but my fingers are way to big to be handlin small parts.
Summary : How to rebuild edelbrock carb |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
that's what you get for buying an edelbrock.
may as well buy ssauto carb rebuild kit while you're at it |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
The float is probably caught on a tiny bit of gasket hanging on the inside of the bowl. Pop the carb apart and you should be able to fix it without the hassle of a full rebuild.
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
The float is probably caught on a tiny bit of gasket hanging on the inside of the bowl. Pop the carb apart and you should be able to fix it without the hassle of a full rebuild.
LOL |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
I'll take a 1000 cfm Thermoquad on a Buick before any POS Holley!
Vic Jr. bought the rights to the AFB's, damn good street carb! Holleys are best at idle or WOT and very little inbetween :) |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by Mista Bone
I'll take a 1000 cfm Thermoquad on a Buick before any POS Holley!
Vic Jr. bought the rights to the AFB's, damn good street carb! Holleys are best at idle or WOT and very little inbetween :) The BEST things about the AFB is trhat they dont blow power valves EVERYT s9ingle time they should happen to backfire.. LOL |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
it could also be just some trash in the seat for the needle. i had that once. tons of fuel cause the needle valve couldnt seal
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
did you bother to check if your jet is still threaded in?
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by PhilStubbs
it could also be just some trash in the seat for the needle. i had that once. tons of fuel cause the needle valve couldnt seal
Good chance that is you're problem, a pice of grass, or gasket, or anything could be cought in the needle valve. pop it apart, worst case is you have to get a new one big deal they are cheap. |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
i've had carbs go rich for no reason under the sun, and found nothing wrong with them.
you could have a fuelpump with a plugged/stuck closed return, but you never said if this pours gas when running or not. details are needed to diagnose |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
This is a new motor and hasn't been running long enough for me to know if it pours while running
I did turn it upside down a few times so im sure a float or valve is bloacked with dirty .... |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
Yea it was on the old motor for about a year and i took it off and up'ed it a few times int he processs of moving to my new garage ... must have junk in my needle valve ----.
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Basically, its a fifteen to thirty minute fix if you ever got off the internet and tried to fix your ----.
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
Took the air horn off and checked, the floats are fine. The needles are clean and seal . It just cranks and cranks and gas dribbles out the headers. Have spark, gets fuel and timing i cant really check since it aint running ...
anything past 10psi is pretty much gonna bypass the needle anyways |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
stock fuel pump, dead on 6.5 psi.
My needle valves and seats looke clean and are tight. Could I have just flooded it that bad by pouring a little gas in the carb and over cranking it that it caused the drip out the header?? pull the carb off, and blowgun the intake ports |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
Well I checked it again and the carb is fine. I must have just flooded it terribly before . Tommrow I will change the oil and filter and see why it wont fire up. Its cranking good and the number one cyl has spark ... it was running but wouldnt start today ...
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by c0mpl3x
that's what you get for buying an edelbrock.
may as well buy ssauto carb rebuild kit while you're at it |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
I honestly tried to comprhend that but your loosing me with the at TDC you have TDC cam turns once for crank turning twice, just because you have tdc on #1 doesn't mean it's not off 180º. you can not pop the valve cover off, and still do it, and just reclock the distributor to #1 cyl. i always mark where the #1 cyl firing post is on my cap, on the distributor so i know where exactly #1 is if i take the distributor out, or need to leave room for timing changes. |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
Okay nigglets, I hooked up my new fuel pressure gauge today and cranked the motor over for a few seconds and it was showing 10 psi. This fuel pump was on my old motor, i had to change it over to this newer motor because it had a funny pump with three nipples on it before. I tired again tonight and couldn't get it to start.
Is it possible for a fuel pump to go bad and pump too much? IS it possible when i changed the fuel pump the rod is stuck or somehting making it pump wide open?? Side question - How do I GET to TDC? I can't move the crank pulley at all by hand and i over shoot it when i bump it with the starter ?! 10psi is way to much for a carb that hasn't been modified. if you have no fuel return, 10psi will be like pissing in your own mouth. you need to lower the pressure to a safe 4-7psi, i'd go for 4 or 5. higher psi is just more of a chance of running rich and ruining any gas mileage you may have |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Originally Posted by burkej62
Well what would cause a fuel pump that was fine to go crazy and pump more ??
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Basic mechanics 101.
Yank the left bank's valvecover. Turn engine over until you are at number one cyl's TDC (of the compression stroke) - intake valve just closed, exhaust hasn't opened yet. Scope out the dist and make sure that the rotor is pointing towards the dist cap contact for number one cylinder. OMG, barring timing chain issues, you are in time. |
Re: Need some old school muscle help again
Yes.
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Re: Need some old school muscle help again
align it as close to cyl #1 on the distributor cap, at tdc
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