Birdley42008

It seems to be getting better. I drove it again for like 45 min and came back to check the oil and it wasnt as bad as before. i think it needs one or two more oil changes and all the moisture will be out. Also I dont think there is a leak in the coolant system. I just changed what was in the resivior and then ran the car and i didnt loose any coolant.

b18.

Good to hear.

Birdley42008

Im starting to really have some serious problems with this car. So I decided the milky oil must of been from collected moisture when my oil pan was off for a long period of time, and the only way to fix it would be to run the motor and change the oil. Ever time I drove the car and then checked the oil it was increasingly less milky.
I start the car up today it started to make an alternator shreak. But usually it does that until it warms up. I let it sit. It doesnt go away but I still drive the car. It was fine until I let it Idle in a parking lot for a moment and it then just shut off, and I started it back up, but It was running rough. I had to drive it home I was in a parking lot 3 minutes from my house. I drove it home and It was rough all the way. I figured I blew the head gasket. I get home I immediately check the oil and it looks perfect NO MILK! I dont understand it. But its throwing a CEL. The car starts to idle a little better and I rev it up and it sounded better. I check the CEL and its 3 blinks MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor. I dont know much about the MAP and I dont know why it would do that Im running a stock map. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

b18.

Stock MAP + boost = out of it's range, though it will read to 11psi.

Might just be cooked.

EG-prince

what he said ^ why are you still using an safc? You know you could sell that and have your ecu chipped with a decent basemap and still have money left over right? But fix your squeaky belt too. If its squeaking either the belt is effed or your alternator is. Either way, its going to cause the alternator to not function properly, and that is going to mess with other things too. And ****** another map sensor and see if that fixes it. My bet is that it read boost and threw a CEL though. Just pull the ecu fuse for a min and let it reset, i bet you don't have the problem again until you hit boost again

b18.

+1 for what EGhatch said.

I didn't even realize you were running a ------- retard SAFC!

Find a P06, they're cheap, and have someone tune it, send it to me if you really need to. I've done about six or seven now but no way am I professional, and as of right now I no longer have the cable to connect it to my laptop, so it'd basically be a chipped ecu with the jumper pulled.

Make sure it's the alternator belt dying and not an alternator diode, those make a howling cat noise as well when they decide to quit.

Birdley42008

Im only running 5-7 psi, ecu is not fried. Alternator caused the car to stall and run like ----. I need to undo the lock screw and tighten the tensioner screw and tighten back down the locking screw. Then I will change my oil again and add mystery marvel, and get a new oil sandwich adapter and my problems are solved.