2civic3

Hi guys,

I need help here. I will say this first, Im getting OEM parts nothing else period. I went to Honda dealer to pick up Main and Connecting Rod bearings for my Vitara/Ealge/Turbo project. Im starting to gather parts to build my z6 block. When I talked to the part guy at Honda, he showed me 2 types of main and rod bearings with color coded. I dont know which one part# and which color i should get so if you guys know which is the correct main and rod bearings for my z6 block please help me out here. Thanks a lot guys!!

I hope this thread help others too.

civicsihatch09

Just get all green coded bearings.When they rebuild you block at honda, that's what thay put back in it.If you had your crank turned make sure you get the right size.If not get the standard bearings.

whiterice

Get the correct size. Plastigauge them and check the specs to see if you have to go up a size.

Xgenturbo

In most cases that WILL work, however...Every now and then you come across a block where the clearance might bo too tight or too lose, I ran in to this problem rebuilding a B18B with my buddy, one of the bearings was too tight and we had to look up the code for that journal and get the right size bearing from honda.

my last few rebuilds I just reused the bearings and they were fine, the build I am doing now on my B16A I am reusing the mains and getting all brand new ACL green bearings for the rods. use plastiguage and dont be hesitant to reuse a bearing if it is clean and damage free.

quadnie

congrats on spending 5x the money that you should have.

I've installed ACL and Federal Mogul bearings and what not on many rebuilds. Spun a rod bearing? No problem! Throw the old crank away (since it's pointless to turn/micropolish a honda crank - I use my old ones as a yard ornaments). Buy a used but non spun/good condition crank and replace whichever connecting rod that bit it (typically #2 or #3 on the B motors).

Then go score an ACL bearing set for $50-$80 (including thrust washers) and rebuild with plenty of moly assembly lube. You should have no problems when using the green generic plastigauge while assembling (I've never had a problem being out of spec on a build). With good condition parts that were removed from a working motor that didn't suffer your prior motors fate = a newly freshened motor that will perform just fine. Who cares if it won't reach the 200k mile threshold that a perfectly maintained and non-abused factory motor will see. If you're visiting this website for answers... chances are your car ain't stock. Jeff always had this great philosophy; my motors don't last 10k miles - so who cares, ---- honda longevity.

If you're going to goto the dealer and buy the proper spec'd bearings in accordance to the formula of your rod + crank than you must also have a hard-on for the gook madness. Enjoy your green bearings since I'm sure they match the green rims of your white integra that is sporting the pure JDM madness of a freakin' dinner tray.

If you're looking for props for having matching honda parts on your worn out motor than goto H-T. If you want to give a little bit more life to your ride for cheap than follow my advice.


Funny, I didn't even get into the realm of emry cloth and oversized bearings on a car that should probably get sold real fast...

Tom-Guy

I've tuned perfectly reliable cars with ACLs than made more power than your current and next three Honduhs combined. ACLs FTW, ---- OEM bearings.

Pretty much entirely incorrect.

You run green rod bearings for the aftermarket rods, sure, but the crank bearings need to be matched up on the table whiterice was kind enough to post. If you turn a Honduh crank, there is no way in hell you'll ever fit an OEM bearing.

Since the bearing rides on a film of oil, it doesn't care if the journal's surface harness has been compromised. Turn the rods and mains down however you please and order undersize bearings - I've had a hand in a couple engines that have done this, made assloads of power, and work great. If you lose oil pressure in a performance engine... the one second of safety the OEM hardening ensures at OEM power levels isn't going to save anything.

quadnie

I do see your point. Maybe my goto man at the time experienced a bad turn.. maybe it was the fact that my #2 journal had an attack of a cheese grader. Either way, I was able to score a perfectly good used lowish miles LS crank on ebay for less than I would have paid the machine shop. I do have great relations with my local trusted machinist but sometimes it easier to just replace. Asides, that old fucked up crank paid for itself time and again for its use as a fence stopper so the dog wouldn't escape.

Tom-Guy

A marred journal is fixable, if it's burnt and the crankshaft's temper further than the outermost skin of the journal is compromised... eh. I''ve seen machinists and mechanics with plenty of years experience do stupid stuff like that, when they should know better.

quadnie

I could see a low tolerance journal that is a perfect candidate for a turn (and sometimes your shop will turn just one and polish the rest for next to nothing). After I hit redline passing 5 cars on a backwoods country road and spun the bearing I pulled over. Then I decided to drive a few miles back home until the knock got really bad so I could save a few bucks on the tow charge (once again, savings on the replacement crank). The one that was bad from old age+low oil+redline was pretty damn bad. I emry clothed it down but the tolerences made it more of a pear versus a perfect circle so it was time to move on.

In my situation my outcome was appropriate and everything is working great now on the bottom end of a car that I sold to some 70 year old man (who worships that car). My point is that sometimes it's cheaper to just swap and forget. Not everybody has access to a lathe and can order individual oversized bearings without paying the toll of a whole set.

Slo_crx1

Lol...now you say this after I ordered King bearings.