for the money your going to be spending for a TyTE na car might as well go boost. even if your only running 8-10 psi your going to have a lot more fun then the n/a build. if you have never rode in a boosted car you should. it will revolutionilize your world. and not a stock factory boosted car even though those are still cool in the own sence. i would go with what ebola said probibly. you could hype that head like your already did to some ricer. maybe replace the valves if you think they need replacing sell it for some cash buy a cheap ls head and turbo parts. and let the boost begin.

 

Ahhh you need some ciff notes.

 

thats what i'm thinking i ------- hate reading long post i just skimm and read the replies to get a general idea of what the original post was about

 

all motor is lame you have a sleeved block i say hm itb setup plus 100 shot d/p and a motec exhaust

 

ok sao if i boost why go witha ls head......

 

200hp easy

 

Since I see alot of stuff being thrown out here I'll share my 2 cents worth.
1. Find out what dome height those pistons are. If they come to the top of the deck and sit level like pr4's and pr3's do and still have a dome, you're probably looking at mid 11:1 c/r and possibly more. But who knows exactly until you check the dome height.
2. If it does turn out to be a mid 11:1 or higher compression setup, then those cams should produce some big power. I would also check to see what kind of rods are in the bottom end (whether or not they're just stock pr4's or aftermarket forged units). The head setup sounds like it's set for a big all-motor power build, just depends on the bottom end and tuning.
3. Rpm redline will depend on your bottom end. Bone stock pr4's I personally wouldn't run to 9500 (even pr4's with ARP bolts might be chancing it unless everything is 100% balanced). Aftermarket rods can take a better beating, but H-beam designs are not meant for extremely high rpm, whereas I-beam designs are (just don't expect to make a ton of hp on I-beams). If it was mine, I wouldn't push it past 8600 or 9k at the most, and your powerband will probably be falling off before then anyway.
4. It is not impossible to make over 200whp out of one of these motors. Too many people here are jaded by cheap boost setups, all-motor can hit this number too although with a much higher price tag. Extra displacement gives you the edge, as does the massive cams when coupled with a high enough c/r to utilize them properly. I've seen plenty of low-buck ls/vtec builds that surpass the 200whp mark (low-buck as compared to the high dollar all motor builds). Most b20/vtec builds will usually start laying out numbers around that area with a good cam combo.
5. R/S ratio debates...these can go on forever. But when it comes down to the light weight rotating assemblies of honda engines, it really doesn't make a difference. Honda learned that when they started producing the 1.8gsr's and type-r engines, which has a r/s ratio of 1.58:1 as compared to the LS's 1.54:1. Funny thing is, gsr's and type-r's have the same redline and higher than the much touted perfect r/s ratio b16 (coming in at 1.74:1). This will probably **** some people off, but this is what I've learned from personal experience over the years. If you really want guilt-free monster high rpm's, get a rotary engine. :P

 

I concur

 

i say sell the motor to me for $50 shipped and forget the whole thing, its a waste of time, you dont want to deal with all this BS involved, you just want to sell the motor and drive your 4 door...

 

thanks this is the answer i have been looking for in FIVE SITES......no one would share any concreat answers..it takes some inteligent person to give valid points and views....its very easy to not add to the quality of the thread...slo_crx1 thank you again....

where is the best place to buy ARP hardware and 83mm headgasket for a good price...wanta buy from the same site...