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Iron Vs. Aluminum Block

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Old 01-03-2006, 12:20 PM
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Default Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block

we are not the honda arena, and we are not retarded ricers.

Originally Posted by Mista Bone
Yeah, we ain't ------- around.

mid 7's on motor, 6.3-6.4's on the hose.

Ever mess with a Lenco 4 speed?

3 planetarys in a row, my last suggestion dropped .1 on the sixty and .15-.18 on the ET. Just juggliing the gearing sets I turned a solid 7.10 which could hit a 6.98-6.99 and hurt parts, into a solidly consistant 6.95 car.

Clutch never hooks in first gear, so the 1-2 gearing really matters on a nitrous IHRA Top Sportsman car.

250 hit on the launch, next 250 if she ain't hopping, then right before 1-2 gear change you hit the 300 button. Gotta keep the clutch slipping until mid second gear when the weights finally apply max force.

My 1.5L = 91 CID, the 740 / 8 = 92.5 CID per HOLE!
Your hitting 6'es at edgewater?!
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Old 01-04-2006, 09:18 PM
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Default Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block

no way, track is unsafe for those speeds.

Plus DICKass Weinle won't prep the track, not even for his son's Pro Stock car.

Detroit, only place for true power.
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:00 AM
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Default Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block

Aluminum, weight for weight, is ten times stronger than steel or iron. That means you have to use (guessing here) 2.5 times the volume of aluminum to equal the iron block's strength. Keep in mind most modern designed blocks, which are stronger due to solid design and bracing, are aluminum. A recent iron block should be even more so... just try to take the broad view.

Aluminum does a lot better job absorbing detonation: the blown alky cars that start fiddling with nitromethane run aluminum rods, because regular steel units just transfer vibrations to the rod bearings + crank. This also applies to aluminum blocks.

Those are the two (three?) points I think get glossed over.





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