Slo_crx1

I'm having some stupid part-throttle bullshit in my obd0 b16 swapped hatch, anytime the engine's warmed up and I'm under 2500rpm's the car bogs down at part throttle. I can hit the gas to the floor and it doesn't want to clear out, I actually have to let off the throttle and then lay into it and it picks up fine again. I've checked the tps sensor, set it at 0.45v closed, checked my chipped obd0 pr3 and even reburned the basemap and still nothing. Plugs are good, o2 sensor is brand new (put it in last week), run a minimum of 93 octane, and have correctly set the base timing at the dizzy to the specified 16*btdc. Anyone else have any ideas or things to add, please post 'em up. It doesn't do it while the engine's cold, and I can watch the shitty narrowband a/f gauge go from the rich section down towards the lean area and hover a little when it starts bogging, and when you let up and get back in it shoots back to the "green" section again, so I know it's leaning out for some stupid reason. Even tried jumping the fuel up with my vafc just to see what it'd do and nothing. WTF?

Obd0 is a pita, time for an obd1 swap and some Crome tuning. :P

Guy-Fast

I would check your internal on your dizzy make sure there isnt any corrision


also spark plug wires how old?

Slo_crx1

I'll pop the cap off tomorrow and check inside and see, it's an old dizzy so it's possible. Wires are some set of Accell 8.5mm or something around that size, maybe 6 months old tops.

Guy-Fast

the crusties inside a dizzy are known for odd ignition problems atleast from personal experince. Alot of the JDM used dist I have seen have alot of build up inside of them

Smith-02

make sure your tps isn't wandering its position

Slo_crx1

It's not, I've set it at least 3 times so far in the past week just to make sure. The only amount it seems to differ over time is 0.005 volts, which really isn't ----. I kinda boned myself in the long run, I have an msd cap for an external coil, and today when I went to order another one they said they can't get them in any more, and nobody local can get one either. :P
Either way I'm converting over to obd1 so I can run Crome (the version 1.4.5beta gives me a stiffy ) so I don't see the purpose in special ordering a $60 cap just to never use it again. :P

Slo_crx1

Well, figured I'd bump this for some more possible answers. So far I've replaced the o2 sensor with a standard bosche 1-wire, replaced the cap and rotor, replaced the plugs and wires, replaced the map sensor, set reset and set the tps again, replaced the fpr, replaced the piece on the other end of the fuel rail (almost like a shock setup for where the fuel enters to smooth it out), burned and reburned .bin files for the ecu and a few other things and still no luck. Each day it seems to get worse and worse, starting to get to the point where it bogs and starts to buck off the line if you slowly press into the throttle. Only time now it doesn't do it is when the car's cold and still warming up. Granted it's dog rich, but once it warms up and leans out it starts to do it consistently. Only thing I haven't replaced is the walbro 255lph pump that I have in the tank, and even with a new adjustable fpr on the rail I still can't get the pressure to drop below 38-40psi. Unfortunately, the most I can get it to raise is about 55psi and at idle with vacuum to the fpr it only drops maybe 2-3psi at most. I'm about 2 seconds away from just replacing the pump with a stock unit, since all of my problems with this car started after I changed the pump. Any one else have any more ideas?

Smith-02

map sensor?

Slo_crx1

Changed and tried 3 different ones...absolutely no difference at all. :P

Donald125

is cam timing correct?