i was wondering how was your first time rebuilding and engine? what engine was ? what happened in the first start up? im not sure really if dissamble my b16 completely (crank,rods and pistons are still mounted on the block, head and the rest is out ) because my b16 made good compression and no lack/burn oil.. friends of mine say me if engine was runing good it's not necesary to remove pistons and so but i'd like to clean, measure (for learning more of this ---- only) and so.. i will rebuild it just all stock and boost it of course after that.. i have haynes manuals book already.. well how was ur first rebuild? it blewn after that? , any "trick" , advice ? ...

 

I built my first a few weeks ago. It's a Z6 with Eagle rods, CP pistons, reworked head. The only problems I had were electrical ones really. I have some piston slap because the machinist that bored the block did it to CP's specs, which are kind of loose. It sounds like a diesel at low rpms, but it's not too bad. I'm a bit worried about what will happen down the line with the block, since I'm trying to use it as a DD, but the sound mostly goes away when the engine's hot. I did a valve adjustment too a few days ago so a lot of the ticking went away, but I still think at least one piston is slapping. When I rev it and let off the gas I can hear a slight whistling, like a small air leak or something. It does it during wot pulls until vtec engages, so I dunno it might be the LMA's. I blew a radiator hose last week driving home from the pet store and I was super pissed off. I was hoping it wasn't the HG, so I cut the hose open to look at it and there was a crack 6" long on the inside. So that was a good sign. I replaced the hose and no problems so far. My biggest fear is all of the little noises and creaks and ---- are from metal to metal contact, but I really don't know how to check for that. I might just be worrying about nothing, since the engine has 500 miles on it, but it's noisy. Well, that's experience with building a first engine.

 

advice take ur time follow the manual's directions use all the torque specs, replace the bearings and rings get the block tanked assembly the head off of the block and set the valve lash to spec use lots of lubraplate assembly lube

 

im in the process of building a b16 now it is a pain in the *** when it comes to measurments + i have to file alot to get my pistons to work with the oil squirters. The piston ring end gap other ---- like that. but so far bottom end will be complete when i recive the new squirters i had to buy.

 

ive seen similar problem...was LMAs.. check them.. well, i dunno yet if change bearings and piston rings..

lilpooh21186 , why do you need another oil squirters? them touch ?

thx..

 

rod knock

 

chris was that directed at me? I've wound it up and the sound doesn't get louder, and almost totally goes away when the engine's hot. The bearings and rings are new, and there's no smoke so that leads me to believe the rings are intact. Ring gap was good, the thing that bothers me is the bores were bored to CP's specs for the pistons, which I've been told is too large. But it's funny at 600rpm (around idle) the engine turns at 10rps, right? Well the sound isn't that fast, more like 2-3 times a sec. What should I check on the LMA's? Vtec engages I know from the intake sound. The hissing goes away and it sounds deeper. My plugs look good. Nice and tan but the white insulator part is still white. The very top of the threads are kind of sooty. This is the same across the board. The ------- noises and ---- are making me paranoid... I really don't want to ---- up the motor especially since I depend on it.

 

my squirters touch my pistons and the piston pushes the squirter up and my crank touches it

 

no it wasnt. Mine was rod knock

 

remove them. the piston oil squirters are redundant one you install forged pistons. they are meant to keep the stock cast pistons cool. now that you have forged pistons, they will do nothing for you. plug them, your oil pressure will also increase!