Slo_crx1

I've been skimming around checking out different sets of cams to get for my ls/vtec. The most popular one seems to be the skunk2 stage 2's with a few Crower's scattered here and there. As it looks so far, if I'm going to be able to afford a set of skunk2's I'm gonna have to try and hunt em on ebay. Does anyone have any experiences with a decently sized camshaft that could reccomend a good company that might be a little cheaper? I know vtec cams aren't cheap any way you go, but there's gotta be something a little more affordable for me for the time being :P I already have my valvetrain upgraded so that's not even an issue, just looking for some opinions on an equivilent to the skunk2 stage 2's. Oh, and as you can tell, this is not for a turbo application...so don't even bother replying with something like "---- cams, up the boost"

qfast817

my friend got some jun stage 3 cams off of ebay for 450 new for his type r. it made 239whp and 177tq

Slo_crx1

That sounds like a pretty good deal. C'mon guys...no more all motor heads on hmt anymore Guess no one likes the challange of producing power the old fashioned way :P

Slo_crx1

Ok...check these out...http://www.crower.com/cat/import/hon...s/b_vtec.shtml Doesn't seem like too bad considering all the specs are given. And at $499, these are def. waaay cheaper than any skank2 cams :P Oh, one last thing...does anyone know the spring rates of the type-r dual springs? Looks like I'm going to want at least 100lb springs for the bigger cams.

Donald125

seen whole bunch of setups with JUN III they seems to do good?

Ravage70

s2s2 make good power and keep a stock idle, you cant go wring
Blox Bs are the same

EF9_808

Make sure you upgrade the springs and retainers. Also some of the higher stage cams require you to grind down some of the rocker arms to accomodate for the higher lift to avoid coil bind. I've seen damage on rockerpads caused by what I believe to be an excesivly stiff valve spring(Skunk2) on an H22 and an LS/VTEC I would recommend supertech or KMS valve springs.
I my opinion Skunk2 make good Copies of proven cams(buddy club) the lift and duration are higher than Crower. But one must remember the more duration your cams have the more RPM you need to make power they will also be twice as effective with high compression. If its a stock block LS your compression will most certainly be your limiting factor. The stock LS block will also be hard pressed to survive constant abuse in the 8500+ RPM range these cams(s2s2) will require. You will also need adjustable cam gears to make max power. If you don't have the compression and don't have the cams dialed in you will be wasting $600+ or what ever the cost. Cams are NOT bolt on parts so be prepared to drop bills or be very disapointed. I'm a noob when it comes to boost but I've been Playing with N/A cars forever. BTW I wouldn't use these cams with out at least 11:1 compression one must keep in mind most of the aftermarket cams were designed around the HYPE R platform.

Slo_crx1

That's some good info right there. I've mostly been an all-motor man for different engines other than honda, mostly cause it's easier to produce power with a turbo on a honda. This time I wanted something a little more reliable (read not breaking every day :P) and challenging at the same time. Since you have some experience in the all-motor honda world, here's my setup so far and tell me what the pro's and con's are. B18a1 block, at the machine shop right now being bored over to match a set of oversized pr3's. From the rough # the machinist gave me, I'm looking to be around the 12:1 c/r after decking the block as well. Stock b18a1 crank, being balanced out to 11,000 rpm, oil journals chamfered and micropolished journals. Rods for now are just stock b18a1's, having them shotpeen them and maybe magnafluxed, and arp rod bolts. I'd rather use a set of decent rods such as eagles or crowers, but it depends on my budget at the moment. Pr3 water pump, pr3 oil pump with spacers to step up oil pressure, multi-layer-steel HG, probably stock honda rings and bearings, golden eagle ls/vtec kit with the arp headstuds, type-r valve springs and retainers, decently port-matched and polished b16a head, aebs or blox intake manifold (still haven't decided on which one would be better...and still have to buy whichever one), and that pretty much brings me to the cam dilemma. I'm having the machinist balance everything as a whole unit, that way if I have to run a much higher rpm I can, although I don't see myself breaking over 10,000 rpm ever. Would be nice...vtec's sound mean as ---- at that rpm But on the reality end, the car is somewhat daily driven, so it still must be streetable with a decent mid-range powerband. I'm in no rush to rip out my current b16 anytime soon, so I'm taking my time and doing as much research as possible now, gathering parts, and then assembling everything over this coming winter. All I want is a good setup that will make around the 215hp mark and be reliable at the same time. Doesn't sound like alot of power, but in an 89 hatch...things get a little more fun over 200 horse

EF9_808

I haven't really played too much with the stock rods I don't trust them to hold much more power than stock. In your case After you put the arp rod bolts in make sure the big end of the rod is still round. I highly doubt the rods will hold up to what you want to do with them. since you are going through all that trouble of shot peening and balanceing it may survive some short trips to those rpms. In my opinion I wouldn't go over 8500-9000 you should have no problem running that all day. Make sure they do the balancing as an assembly. The Type R valve springs will handle 9000 rpm with the type R cams but when Higher lift cams are used coil bind will become a huge problem. Get some aftermarket springs. As a rule for every 1 full point compression is increased the power band moves up about 500 rpm. That being said when you add cams that all changes AGAIN. Anothing you have to concider is the block decking you are going to do and the piston combo this will dramatically change valve clearance asck them to clay the block for to check for clearance. When you find out what clearance you have then you can figure out max lift you can run.

hotrex

if you call low to mid 200 whp power..... ------ gay if u ask me. 7k to make 230whp. all motor

or i could make 300whp on the same ls/vtec for 500 dollars. with a homo junkyard turbo kit