god damn crank pulley bolt
04-23-2007, 04:50 PM
#11
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 503
Re: god damn crank pulley bolt
50mm hex nut welded onto a length of bar with the thread/centre bored out large enough to fit the correct (19mm iirc?) socket through. Makes doing a crank pulley bolt a one man job. Compared to faffing about removing the flywheel cover.
04-23-2007, 05:00 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: god damn crank pulley bolt
I just did one on a stand yesterday. All I did was put two flywheel bolts in the crank and stick a metal bar inbetween the bolts and then turn the crank until it stops against the engine stand. that held it tight and I just took it off with a breaker bar.
04-23-2007, 10:20 PM
#14
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,081
Re: god damn crank pulley bolt
Originally Posted by Dmc1
I just did one on a stand yesterday. All I did was put two flywheel bolts in the crank and stick a metal bar inbetween the bolts and then turn the crank until it stops against the engine stand. that held it tight and I just took it off with a breaker bar.
04-23-2007, 11:40 PM
#15
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 65
Re: god damn crank pulley bolt
Originally Posted by Minor Threat
This is the reason I don't run flywheel inspection covers.
Small wrench, bolt on the flywheel, bolt on the tranny casing and a big breaker bar with an extension.
Small wrench, bolt on the flywheel, bolt on the tranny casing and a big breaker bar with an extension.
04-23-2007, 11:55 PM
#16
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,162
Re: god damn crank pulley bolt
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
The hell with that...the six sided tool with 1/2" breaker bar attached. Bought mine a few years ago from snap-on and has been the best investment into my tool collection since. Breaks 'em free every time with very little effort. 
It's actually considered a "special" tool by honda but it's worth every penny....got mine about 8 months ago just because our snap-on guy came arond with an extra one some guy ordered but ended up bouncing his check
04-26-2007, 03:12 PM
#19
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 0
Re: god damn crank pulley bolt
If you can get the motor on the ground your going to be able to get real force at it. of course having a cylinder head will help with the weight transfer has you put pressure on the bolt
Also if you havent sakk the **** out of it with lube
Also if you havent sakk the **** out of it with lube
04-29-2007, 03:48 PM
#20
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 942
Re: god damn crank pulley bolt
I've done it about 10 times with an engine on the ground.
1)Stick a screw driver through one of the flywheel holes, let it go against something that won't break. (I find that an automatic flex plate has bigger holes in it, so if you attach one of those on there, and put something bigger through the holes in it, you have less chance of breaking the smaller tools that fit through the flywheel bolt holes.)
2)Put a minimum 5ft pipe over your "returnable if broken" ratchet or breaker bar that is armed and ready to take off that bolt.
3)Have at least two people stand on the motor, preferably wedged against a wall or the ceiling with their arms.
4)Jump on that pipe, and it will come off. I've done this on engine with 150k w/original timing belts, engines with 40k, engines with 250k on them, and everything between. NEVER had a problem.
Scew heating it, spraying it, it's so tight, none of it helps, i've tried it.
1)Stick a screw driver through one of the flywheel holes, let it go against something that won't break. (I find that an automatic flex plate has bigger holes in it, so if you attach one of those on there, and put something bigger through the holes in it, you have less chance of breaking the smaller tools that fit through the flywheel bolt holes.)
2)Put a minimum 5ft pipe over your "returnable if broken" ratchet or breaker bar that is armed and ready to take off that bolt.
3)Have at least two people stand on the motor, preferably wedged against a wall or the ceiling with their arms.
4)Jump on that pipe, and it will come off. I've done this on engine with 150k w/original timing belts, engines with 40k, engines with 250k on them, and everything between. NEVER had a problem.
Scew heating it, spraying it, it's so tight, none of it helps, i've tried it.
